While donning a bright, red waterproof shell suit and a pair of oversized wellies, I hobbled into the boat and plonked myself down. Never before had I felt like a giant prawn, but there’s a first for everything.
After brushing aside how ridiculous I felt in my shell suit, I eagerly awaited the sound of the boat engine, before jetting off to see my very first glacier: Von Post Glacier in Svalbard.
After going on a few boat safaris, I’ve discovered the back row of seats are the best place to sit if you want a smoother ride (especially if it’s a RIB boat), so I did exactly that.
As I managed to secure one of these seats I couldn’t help smiling to myself as I watched the front seats being taken up (I’m a terrible person, I know).
The seating at the back is more like a small leather sofa with room for three people, but all other seats are shaped in the style of a horse’s saddle which you have to straddle over. They are equipped with a handlebar for your safety, but nevertheless, it still feels like you’re trying to ride a horse.
If the boat is going fast and the sea is rough, you’ll be glued to the handlebar, trust me.
Thankfully, our ride on the Isfjord was very smooth and the boat appeared to glide through the water with virtually no bumps and crashes.
Our driver and guide from Spitsbergen Travel stopped every so often to allow us to take photos and talk a little more about the Arctic wildlife and the basic geology of the landscape.
Unfortunately, the prawn suit did a superb job at trapping out sound so I found it quite difficult to hear him at times.
But watching him talk, I couldn’t help but a sense of awe, and maybe a tiny tinge of jealousy – imagine being able to call this magnificent place home? A place where Polar Bears, walruses, puffins, and whales are your neighbour. Only another 2500 people on earth could say the same thing.
Being on an open boat, it was only a matter of time before the cold started to numb my face and my eyes watered against the cold wind. Combining this with the salty sea spray, it was like having a very expensive exfoliation!
Spotting wildlife
We passed cliffs teaming with birds, and saw cute little puffins bobbing up and down on the gentle waves before arriving at Sassenfjord leading towards Von Post Glacier.
You know you’re approaching the glacier because flocks of birds who feed from the small algae and insects that grow from the ice swoop, circle and squawk in the area to collect food. The dynamic nature of glacier-fed ecosystems provides a consistent supply of food for birds. Whether it’s fish, invertebrates, or other organisms, the availability of prey supports a diverse bird population.
But the most recognisable thing about moving closer to Von Post Glacier is how the sea goes from being smooth to encrusted with ice floes which create loud crunching noises as the boat wades past them.
Our guide told us that most of the glaciers in Svalbard are under 3000 – 4000 years old, because over 5000 years ago the average temperature in Svalbard was around 4 degrees warmer than today so many of today’s glaciers would not have existed.
I was told that Von Post Glacier which is one of the smallest glaciers in Spitsbergen and is between 1500 – 2000 years old. In retrospect I would like to have asked him about the more recent concerns of climate change, I know the question’s a bit of a mood killer but I’m interested in the challenges it might bring to the Arctic landscape, including the reduction of these almighty glaciers.
Stopping for lunch at Bjonahamna beach
After about two hours on the boat we stopped off at a beach for lunch in Bjonahamna (is it just me who’s surprised that beaches exist so far up in the Arctic?).
Lunch consisted of a variety of packet dinners which were made edible through a little added hot water. It’s the stuff that people often take on long hiking expeditions and camping.
I made a good choice with Chilli Con Carne, a surprisingly tasty ‘dish’ once the hot water had softened and warmed up the rice, mince and kidney beans. At this point, I was also thankful to have something toasty to hold and warm up my hands.
Toilet break
Before we decended back into the boat, two people from our crew felt the urge of nature calling. Without a designated bathroom for miles around, it was less than ideal. However, they waddled over behind a large boulder in the distance for some privacy.
They took a long time, but it wasn’t altogether surprising with so many layers to undo. I might have took a toilet break myself, but the prospect of stripping off in the cold did not appeal to me so.
While I did need a wee, I knew it would just be my luck that the moment I pulled down my pants a Polar Bear would appear and come charging toward me. I could see the headlines already, “Tourist mauled to death by a Polar bear as she goes to the toilet”, or something to that effect.
Could you imagine! Nope, I wasn’t prepared to take the risk.
The task of going to the toilet is so much easier for the men! Our tour guide proved this when he took to peeing directly into the sea. How charming!
If you liked this post, you’ll also enjoy: How to get to Perito Moreno Glacier from El Calafate (Patagonia)
8 Responses
Ohhh!!! Can’t look at the color of the ice. How beautiful!
Your “wee part” of story made me smile 🙂
Haha bodily functions always have a way of making me smile, if not laugh too 😀
This is such spectacular landscape and photos, Shing. I got the shivers looking at all those layers all of you have. I can’t even imagine how cold it was but I’m sure very much worth the trip. I’ve only seen glaciers in Alaska but those were from the comfort of big cruise ships. Calving is one of those things that needs to be seen. What a great trip and experience you had. Loved that whole last paragraph 🙂
Spitsbergen is definitely high on my list for the most spectacular scenery I’ve ever seen Mary! Surprisingly, I didn’t find the boat ride too cold which I have my layers to surely thank for that. Sadly I didn’t see or hear an ice calving but it’s one of those things I’d love to experience, I think we must have just missed one as there were ice floes scattered everywhere. I would love to go to Alaska!
For the unique and surreal nature and the birds, and especially the puffins, I’d be all over that tour. Love the snow/waterproof suits too.
Interesting point about global warming. I believe the winters up there are warmer than normal (can’t explain how it was four degrees warmer 5,000 years ago though :-). From what I gather, the glaciers/icebergs are melting, and causing polar bears to drown.
I can’t explain why it was four degrees warmer 5,000 years ago either! I wish I could! It’s such a geologically fascinating place as well as everything else it has to offer. I’ve read about the melting icebergs and the affect its having on the polar bears, I think responsible tourism will do its best to try and prevent things from escalating but it’s a difficult job isn’t it? It’s something the whole world needs to be part of. Good news is that since polar bears have become a protected species their population has grown three times its original amount in Spitsbergen.
Before I was live in Goa India which is quite near marine area. Those days me and my older sister was Suffering in boat.
After can see these pictures reminded me of those days, could i wish to join you and enjoy boating on the glacier.
Hi Sonia, life in India must be very interesting, but what do you mean by ‘suffering in boat’?
I’m glad you felt nostalgic reading this article! 🙂