Within east Shinjuku lies Kabukicho (named after a large Kabuki theatre which was meant to have been built in the area in the 1940’s but was never completed), Japan’s most well-known red-light district, renowned worldwide for its plethora of restaurants, bars and sex-related establishments.
This is the Tokyo I’d always pictured in my mind; streets illuminated by a vast expanse of neon lights and flashing signs, the cacophonous sounds of the tinnitus-inducing pachinko parlours, tiny dark alleyways emitting the combined aroma of musk and freshly cooked meat as street hustlers try in vain to usher you into their seedy underground lair.
Where well-dressed business men and members of the Yakuza, drunk on lust and beer throw money at girls gyrating on stage to the dulcet tones of minimal Japanese techno. Okay, I may have exaggerated the latter a tad -I’ve clearly watched Gaspar Noe’s Enter the Void too many times! Kabukicho truly is a sensory overload. Breathtakingly beautiful in its own unique way. Tokyo epitomised.
Before venturing into Kabukicho, I did a little bit of research and came across plenty of people writing about its perils – all of which you’re likely to experience in any major city you visit anywhere in the world.
Don’t let the horror stories put you off people. A long as you’re relatively street-wise you’ll be absolutely fine! The streets are alive with people 24 hours a day, 7 days a week so you should still feel safe at night.
However, within two minutes of stepping into Kabukicho, we were approached by a man who offered to take us to a place he ‘knew’ served great drinks and had great girls.
Unless you want to lose your credit card, a simple polite ‘no thank you’ will do the trick and walk away. I thought it was amusing that he didn’t alter his ‘sales pitch’ to me – but I think in a place like this, all kinds of boundaries become blurred.
Although Japan is relatively expensive, there’s always great cheap places to eat if you keep looking. We found a fantastic little restaurant located in the heart of Kabukicho where they served a variety of tasty dishes.
I had seafood with vegetables and my friend had beef and noodle soup with momofuku’s belly pork buns and a glass of beer for under £10 each – in fact, it was so good my travel companion retraced his steps the next day so he could order it again.
If you want to know more about Japanese cuisine, you can read more here: Delicious Japanese Dishes & the Cities Famous for Them.
Venture down Memory Lane - commonly known as 'Piss Alley'
One of the most memorable places I visited in East Shinjuku was Omoide Yokocho (Memory Lane) otherwise known as ‘Piss alley’! However don’t let the name put you off!
Piss Alley is named for its early years, when it was a hub for criminals to get their drink on. The place wasn’t very gentrified back in those days, so instead of using a toilet, people just relieved themselves wherever they could (which reminds me of China). However, times have certainly changes, and it’s somewhat of a tourist attraction.
This place is a world of its own, it has a completely unique and distinctive feel. It literally feels like you’re stepping back in time.
Memory lane is tiny and cramped, barely wide enough to fit two people. On both sides of the alley are tiny restaurants and bars illuminated by paper lanterns, serving drinks, grilled meats and some ‘oddities’ which would not see the light of day on a restaurant menu back home in the UK.
Some of the restaurants there were so small, they could barely fit around 7 people inside! The intimate atmosphere is very alluring, however, but not surprising, it’s hard to secure a seat. Instead, I walked down the alley, peeking my head in a little, as though I were sightseeing. Just looking inside each open-windowed restaurant give me a pang of tantalising desire. My taste buds were rather unhappy about it!
Although East Shinjuku is exciting at any time of the day, I found it really came into its own at night.
Want to stay in Kabukicho?
I’d recommend staying in Shinjuku to anyone visiting Tokyo, there’s always something going on and the eating out options are endless.
If you want to stay in Kabukicho which is craziest and busiest part of Shinjuku, then how about a memorable stay at the famous Hotel Gracery? This iconic hotel is famous of its huge Godzilla head peering out from over the skyscrapers. The views from the top across the city do not disappoint either.
Will you visit Kabukicho at night...?
10 Responses
Thanks for the tour! I tried to find Kabukicho on the one night I had free in Shinjuku, but I think I took a wrong turn and failed miserably. 🙁
It’s so easy to take a wrong turn in a city with so many side streets! I had to ask someone where Kabukicho was and eventually got there!
Brilliant pics and review, Shing – I feel as though I was there reading this from my front room. And Piss Alley sounds right up my street!
Yey! You were right there with me exploring the underbelly of Shinjuku!
Yep! Sounds like an adventure worth going on…!
Oh most definitely Victoria! It’s a sensory overload!
Great photos! And East Shinjuku definitely sounds worth a visit!
Thank you! Hopefully you guys get to visit, it’s intoxicating!
Sounds so atmospheric! Of course, anywhere can be dangerous if you don’t act sensible! Good you enjoyed yourself!
It’s such an atmospheric place Eleanor, in some areas it looks like something from a sci-film! Agree, being sensible and listening to your intuitions is key for safe travelling!