Things to See, Do and Eat in Leeds

My hometown of Cleckheaton lies equidistant between Bradford and Leeds, but whilst Bradford was this week ranked as the worst city in the UK, Leeds on the other hand has the sort of vitality and attractions that make it one of the most interesting cities in the north of England.

However, despite being popular among UK dwellers, Leeds gets eclipsed by its other northerly neighbours – Manchester and Liverpool. Everybody has heard of Manchester United and the Beatles but what does Leeds have to make it stand out for international visitors?

Let’s find out…

See & Do

Leeds is extremely pedestrian friendly, the simple and compact layout enables you to walk everywhere on foot with ease. Its appearance mixes modern buildings with old Victorian architecture and decorative arcades, with none more impressive than the Victoria Quarter. This highly ornate shopping arcade is why Leeds is nicknamed the ‘Knightsbridge of the North’. I worked inside this arcade for several years whilst I was a student so I’ve got a lot of memories tied up in here.

Another knock-out building is the Roger Stevens lecture hall located inside the campus of Leeds University; it was designed by Chamberlin, Powell and Bon who also designed the famous Barbican building in London. If you’re into brutalist architecture, you won’t be disappointed by this, it looks like something out of a Stanley Kubrick film. It’s no surprise then why I feel this way since the brutalist campus of Brunel University became the backdrop for scenes in A Clockwork Orange.

© namraf/Flickr

My last architectural recommendation is the Corn-Exchange, a stunning dome shaped Victorian building. However, talking about the the Corn-Exchange always leaves me with a pang of sadness because it used to be very different. It used to be filled with lots of independently own shops and stalls with an alternative edge, a bit like London’s Camden, and as a result loads of people who expressed themselves through their dress sense and hairstyles flocked here, especially goths, skaters and hippies. As a girl these people left an impression upon me because it was like looking through a keyhole to a bigger world where cultures differed and people looked different.

But like so many other places, the Corn-Exchange has become gentrified and the bohemian spirit it once had has evaporated. However, the building itself still looks wonderful and has been tastefully renovated with boutique shops and eateries so I recommend visiting. Around the Corn Exchange you’ll find a few vintage shops, tattoo parlours, health food shops, and a take-away which seems to have different ownership and a different wall mural over the building every time I walk past it.

Leeds’ biggest export is probably the sculptor Henry Moore, in celebration of this is the Henry Moore Institute. The Museum also has selected work and exhibitions from other big-named artists like Sarah Lucas and Alberto Giacomettti. The museum is attached to the Leeds Art Gallery which, even if you’re not massively into art, is worth visiting to retreat from the crowds. I’m a huge fan of Francis Bacon and feel extremely lucky that the gallery has not one but two of his works.

Right next to the Leeds Art Gallery is the Town Hall, a striking building where a variety of functions go on including concerts, if Classical music is your thing check out their website to see who’s performing.

Other museums include the city museum, it has a few decent collections for a rainy day, and south of the city is the Royal Armouries which is free to enter and worth a gander along with a stroll along the canal. Its location at Leeds Dock (formerly Clarence Dock) offers a different view of the city away from the shops with its attractive waterfront apartments.

Where to Eat

There’s something for everyone in Leeds but I have a few firm favourites I’d like to share with you. North of the city are two of my favourite restaurants conveniently located next to each other. I’ll start with The Reliance which is a sort of gastropub that attracts a diverse range of people, it has a really unpretentious atmosphere and most importantly the food is spot on.

Their ethos stems from keeping things local so they’ll change their menu in keeping with availability and they’ll draw their specials on a chalk board. The low-key atmosphere and excellent selection of craft beers means this place is also an ideal gathering point for drinks and catching up with friends without adhering to any dress codes.

Next door to The Reliance is Hansa’s vegetarian Indian restaurant. You don’t have to be a vegetarian to appreciate the food here, it’s light, fragranced and delicious. The menu is best explored by ordering a few dishes and sharing with your dining companion, though the relaxed atmosphere means you could eat here by yourself and still feel comfortable. I usually opt for the chevti daal dish, a tasty daal made with five types of split pulses. It’s so creamy and delicious with just the right amount of spice to make my mouth tingle, but if you’re looking for something with a real kick order the ‘spice bomb’ for your starter – the clue is in the name!

There isn’t a restaurant I’ve eaten in more times than Little Tokyo, this is usually the place where I take friends who visit me and it never fails to put a smile on their faces. With blacked-out windows from the outside on a rather lack-lustre street in the centre of Leeds, it’s extremely unassuming from the onset, that is until you go inside… and you feel like you’ve walked into a lovely oasis in Japan. If you’re having difficulty choosing from the menu, the sake-steamed mussels, sushi, sea bass or eggplant bento box are all sumptuous.

If you just want to grab a quick bite, head over to Trinity Kitchen located inside the Trinity Centre and home to a various of pop-up stalls. This is a cool place to go if you like trying new flavours and different cuisines since it rotates six new street food vans every eight weeks alongside permanent eateries.

For something really affordable head to Leeds Kirkgate Market which is the largest covered market in the whole of Europe!! This is where you’d come if you wanted to buy fresh meat, fish and fruit and veg. When I worked in the Victoria Quarter I would head here on my break to buy olives and baklava, but now when I’m passing through and need to get something on the go I opt for a falafel wrap from Café Moor which serves North African and Middle Eastern style street food. A little trivia about Kirkgate Market is that Marks & Spencer began its life as a humble market stall here!

Where to go for a night out

I’m certainly not the most qualified person to talk about the nightlife in Leeds as I rarely go out these days, and over the last few years when I was in London and elsewhere an unfathomable amount of new bars cropped up in the city so its difficult to keep track of them all.

But when I am dragged out for a friend’s birthday or something else where I have to show my face I tend to stay towards the bottom end of the city because this is where most of the smaller bars and clubs are located.

Call Lane is a popular dwelling place for a night out with its many bars all within close proximity to each other usually playing House music. It’s also where most of the gay bars including Fibre and Queens Court are located. But if you find Call Lane is too busy, the bars closer to the bus station generally give you more room to breathe – Mojo, Smokestack and Outlaws Yacht Club.

After live music? Try basement clubs Wire and HiFi for Soul, Funk, Reggae, Motown and Disco, they both offer a bit of seating area which is exactly what we ache for when we’re lagging behind at the end of the night!

Gateway to Yorkshire Dales and the Bronte Moors

It’s not all about the city, being within close proximity to some of the UK’s most prized scenery means you get the best of both!

If you have any questions about Leeds, let me know in the comment box below!

Have you been, if not, why?!

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