Why is the Food in Melaka so delicious?

Malaysian desserts - these pineapple tarts in Melaka are a must try!

If you love food, you’ll love Malaysia. It’s as simple as that. Malaysia is a journey for the taste buds as much as the eyes.

Though when talking about food in Malaysia, there’s one place that deserves an extra special mention, and that’s Melaka. There’s nowhere quite like this city for tasting the true diversity and authenticity of Malaysian cuisine.

Due to the wide influences and ethnic layering of Melaka, this is a place where you’ll commonly see people eating with chopsticks, knife and fork, or just simply free-styling with their hands, all under one roof.

Why is the food in Melaka so tasty?

Indian-Malaysian food served in Melaka.

Exploring the culinary scene of Melaka is a way of understanding the city’s colonial history. Melaka is a port city so this made it the ideal location for trade between China, India and Indonesia. 

Tales of Melaka’s prosperity brought vast numbers of merchants and entrepreneurs to its shores, eager to benefit from the city’s status and wealth. The Chinese, in particular, came to the Malay Peninsula in sweeping numbers to look for a more prosperous life. Many married Malay women, and descendants of these marriages were known as Peranakan, Straits-born Chinese or Baba-Nyonya.

As the spice trade flourished this attracted Western interest, and Melaka became colonised by the Portuguese, the Dutch, and then the British (no surprise there…), until it gained independence in 1957.

Though the Dutch influenced the city architecturally, and the Brits imposed their language, it was the Portuguese who left their mark on the cuisine. Today, you can visit a part of the city called the Portuguese Settlement where you’ll be able to try their food. Top of the pick is Curry Debal which translates (rather wonderfully) to Devil’s Curry.

So Melaka was at one stage the Spice Capital of the world?

Yes, you could say that without Melaka the spice trade would not have reached Europe as easily and rapidly as it did. So if you appreciate spice as an accompaniment with your food, this is the right time to pay your deepest respects to Melaka!

What influence did the Chinese have on Malay cuisine?

Baba Nyonya Heritage Museum, Melaka

The Chinese really helped shape Malaysian cuisine into what it is today. My family belonged to the second wave of Chinese immigrants to Malaysia.

The main reason for Chinese immigration was economic hardship after Britain defeated China in the Opium Wars during the Qing dynasty, and more Chinese fled over the coming years to escape persecution by the Communist Party.

This mixture of Chinese-Malay is called Peranakan or perhaps more commonly, Baba-Nyonya, Baba is the term for the men and Nyonya is the term for the women.

This heritage can also be strongly found in Penang and Singapore – two other places that offer a tantalising journey for the taste buds, and not far off stealing Melaka’s foodie crown. What I love and appreciate most about this heritage is how it displays the success of multiculturalism in an edible form!

Tell me more about Baba-Nyonya Food

Baba-Nyona Food in Malacca/Melaka

Baba-Nyonya food is a moreish melody of Malay and Chinese, using Chinese cooking techniques such as braising and stir-frying, melded with indigenous ingredients such as galangal, tamarind, turmeric, coconut milk, shrimp-based paste and lemongrass.

The result is a cuisine that is intensely rich, aromatic and punctuated with tangy, pungent and sour flavours.

The best Nyonya restaurants in Melaka

  • Restaurant Makko – 123 Taman Melaka Raya (this is my uncle’s favourite place and he’s a massive foodie!).
  • Amy Heritage Nyonya Cuisine – 75 Jalan  Melaka Raya 24. Taman Melaka Raya.
  • Donald and Lily – 16 jalan KSB 1, Taman Kota Shah Bandar.

What influence did the Indians have on Malay cuisine?

Indian and Malay fusion in Melaka - what to eat.

The main period of Indian immigration was the 19th century, when laborers were shipped across to work on rubber plantations operated by the British, and like the Chinese, they had a major influence on Malay cuisine. One of my favourite things to eat on a morning when I’m in Malaysia is roti canai dipped in lentils or curry sauce. Holy Moly is that stuff the B-O-M-B. My utter weakness in life.

Roti aside, the Indians also introduced other types of flatbread including naan and chapati which you’ll be able to order in an abundance of places in Melaka.

For the all important flavours, it’s dominated by chilli, cumin, garam masala, coriander, turmeric, yogurt mustard seed, coconut and ghee.

Where can I get local food?

Pasar Malam in Melaka - delicious street food

Everywhere. The expression ‘live to eat’ has never felt more alive in Melaka than anywhere else. Though if you really want to mix with locals I suggest going to the hawker centres or pasar malam, at both places you’ll find cheap and super tasty food.

An interesting aspect of hawker centres is that each stall will usually specialise in just one dish like Laksa or Char Kway Teow, so what you’re eating is usually the result of year’s worth of practise. Needless to say, you’re in good hands, that’s for sure.

What dishes are a MUST-TRY in Melaka?

Nasi Lemak

Nasi Lemak in Melaka, Malaysia

Kicking off the list is nasi lemak. Considered Malaysia’s ‘national dish’, it started life as a humble filling for farmers, a fragrant rice dish commonly cooked in coconut milk and pandan leaf and eaten typically with spicy sambal, fried anchovies, a hard boiled egg, peanuts and sliced cucumbers.

Melaka Laksa

Laksa - food in Melaka

Typically made up of rice noodles, spicy coconut soup and usually topped with either tofu, prawns or cockles, it’s probably no surprise to hear that I go bonkers for laksa.

However, it’s worth noting this dish can change from place to place, for example in Penang, the noodles are usually served with a spicy and sour fish broth, and whilst its healthier, it’s the coconut based flavouring that make this dish so unbelievably moreish!

Where to get the best laska in Melaka:
1. Jeta Groves – 115 Taman Melaka Raya.
2. Liu Chiu Coffee Restaurant – Cornershop near the Taman Pertam Post Office, Ujong Pasir. This shop is always crowded because it serves good coffee and toasted bread with Kaya (coconut and egg jam).

Asam Pedas

Asam Pedas - Malaysian Cuisine to try in Melaka

I had this at a hawker centre and it was one of the tastiest things I ate whilst in Melaka. The main ingredients of this dish is fish/seafood, ladyfinger, eggplant and tomato. It is slow cooked in asam (tamarind) juice with chilli and different spices.

The cooking process involves soaking the pulp of the tamarind fruit until it is soft and then squeezing out the juice for cooking the seafood. By the time it reaches your lips, the overall taste is bursting with flavour.

Pai Tee

Food in Melaka

Food in Melaka - Pai Tee

Also known as top hats, Pai Tee is a crunchy flour cup filled with julienned vegetables, omelet and fried shallots. Similar to an aperitif, these tiny treats are the perfect snack to precede a meal.

As you usually would with spring rolls, Pai Tee go down very well with chilli sauce. Simply pop it into your mouth and enjoy its crunchiness!

Tandoori Chicken

Pak Putra restaurant, famous for its Tandoori chicken

I don’t eat meat so I can’t recommend this first-hand but my uncle tells me Pak Putra restaurant has the tastiest Tandoori chicken. What’s more, going as a non-meat eater you can still indulge in the creamiest Bombay potatoes EVER, and their dahl is also worth writing home about too…

Bombay Potatoes at Pak Putra Restaurant in Melaka

Address: Pak Putra is located in Taman Laksamana and always crowed in the evening but the price is reasonable.

Vegetarian 'chicken' tofu skin

Vegetarian food in Melaka - tofu skins and rice balls

It’s difficult to describe how amazing this deceptively simple dish is. When the waitress suggested it as an alternative to the popular Hainanese chicken rice, I didn’t look convinced, but after she replied saying it was their signature dish my confidence levels rose.

And she wasn’t wrong… I don’t know how they do it, but it wouldn’t surprise me if they’ve convinced a few meat-eaters to flip to vegetarianism since their opening.

Address: Shui Xian Su Shi Yuan Vegetarian Food – Jalan Hang Lekiu, Melaka

Now onto dessert!

Cendol

Cendol, Malaysian dessert - What to eat in Melaka

Cendol is like crack. Crazily addictive. This traditional dessert is made from shaved ice, coconut milk, green starched noodles with pandan flavouring and palm sugar.

Other ingredients such as red beans, glutinous rice and creamed corn, might also be included, but I recommend keeping it simple. Though if you manage to find a place that does it with lychees, then that’s always a good call, and a way to pack in a few extra vitamins!

Where to get the best cendol in Melaka:

1. Without a doubt Geta Groves serves the best Cendol in Malacca. (Durian cendol is available during the durian season).

2. Good places can also be found Jonker Street.

Putu Piring

Food and desserts in Melaka - Putu Piring

It’s a steamed rice flour cake with gula melaka filling in the shape of a plate (piring). The putu piring is usually placed on a banana leaf with soft grated coconut that’s lightly salted. Best served warm, it’s light, airy and just the right amount of sweet.

Pineapple tarts

Pineapple tarts - a must-try dessert in Malaysia

I’ve had a thing for these little tarts ever since I was a child, so I had to include these in my list even though I would class them more of a sweet snack than a dessert.

Around Chinese New Year you’ll see a lot of these around in shops because people often offer them as gifts.

What you must know...

It’s impossible to visit Malaysia without putting on weight. I tried to control myself, but ultimately my appetite was bigger than my vanity! One whiff and all good intentions are thrown out of the window. Beware! 

Have you tried the cuisine in Melaka?

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Hi, I'm Shing

Welcome to The Culture Map, a place where I share my travel guides, adventurous tales, and capture the inspiring diversity of our world.

11 Responses

  1. Hey Shing Yoong, you’re posts are always very interesting and this one on peranakan fare has me craving for a fix, but in London! Where would you recommend this in London? Could be tricky on Easter Sunday!

    1. Hi Paul, I’m sorry for the late reply! Did you find a peranakan restaurant in London? I’ve not yet been to one – but you’ve definitely given me purpose to do so! I’ve been doing a little hunting around the web and I’ve found this place which does seafood Laksa – there’s one at Liverpool street and another in Wandsworth: http://www.ekachai.co.uk/locations-and-menus/liverpool-street/

      I can’t promise it’ll reach the lofty heights of Melaka though!

      1. Thanks for the suggestion. I’ve since heard back from Maureen of Nyonya Secrets, and she recommended C&R in Soho (frequented by Embassy staff and students) and Sedap in Old Street. Sadly, I didn’t get to try them before leaving but they are on my to-do list next time in London.

        1. Ahhh thanks so much for passing on Maureen’s recommendation – C&R in Soho looks like the best choice! I did see Sepad but the reviews were so-so… I reckon I should still give it a go nonetheless!

          Yes, when you’re back in London you have an objective to fulfil 😉

    1. If you cook any Malaysian recipes I want to see photographic evidence. If you manage to time that when I’m out of food, I’ll most definitely hate you too.

  2. Oh yeah… my mom is a Malaccan, so I am more or less familiar with Malacca (oops, Melaka) food. Need some asam pedas now!

    More importantly, for giving credits to Malaysian cuisine that is not from Penang, I give you 10 Likes! (I have a personal vendetta against Penang folks who refuse to accept food done any other ways!)

    1. All my family who live in Malacca spell it Melaka too, but for SEO I adopt the Malay way of spelling it. Haha I thought someone would crucify me for saying the food in Melaka is the best when it has Penang to compete with, I’m pleased this isn’t so! 😉

      Mmmmmm I’d be happy right now with any one of these dishes!! Waaaaa I miss Malay food 🙁

  3. I love Nasi Lemak! Although Burmese food isn’t all that similar to the food of Melaka, it has influence from so many countries – especially the Chinese, who I think that influenced a lot of food in SEAsia. Lovely post, and great foodie pics!

  4. Hi,

    Nice article, you write well. I was in Malaysia working for a year, I found the food absolutely horrible. Everything had that same “taste” to it, and the vast majority of the food is fried. Plus, it is almost impossible to find pork unless you go to a Chinese (not Chinese-Malay) restaurant. Also, I saw everyone drowned their food in “Chilli Sauce” which again I guess was to mask the taste, or had extremely sugary drinks to mask as well.

    Ciao

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