I’ve been exploring New Zealand solo for six months, on the road from the North Island to the South. This really is a special place, true heaven for adventure seekers. I fall for this country at first sight. Who wouldn’t?
The Tongariro Alpine Crossing is ‘a must’ in New Zealand. I didn’t want to spoil the surprise by reading too much about it, my instinct was just to go. But I met some people in Taupo, coming back from the hike. They had terrible weather, so the only thing they saw were clouds –and sore muscles. I hoped for more luck.
5:30 am – Alarm.
It’s time. I drive to the bus station, then take the shuttle bus to the starting point of the hike. It’s well organised, they bring you there, and they come to pick you up later at the end of the track. Everybody is sleeping on the bus. An hour later, I wake up in a parallel world – am I on the Moon? The sun is still low, the light is blue, the landscape is unreal, and it’s so quiet. There is not a single cloud in the sky; it’s going to be a sunny day.
7:30 am – Let’s do this.
I’m not the only one here. We are about fifty people, starting from the same point. But the paths are wide, and the scenery impressive enough to forget about everything else. After the first hour, everyone finds their own pace, so it’s well balanced, and not crowded any more. I can be alone with my thoughts.
Featuring an expanse of volcanic terrain, the Tongariro National Park is dramatic, awe-inspiring natural scenery. It’s a 19.4 kilometre journey among unique landforms and volcanic peaks.
It’s 19.4 kilometre of beauty from the first footstep to the last one. It starts with a well-formed path slowly climbing up out of the tussocks and into the volcanic rock. The scenery is magnificent, I feel like Frodor on his way to Mordor –without the trolls, fortunately. Then the aptly-named Devil’s Staircase is coming… A very steep, sweaty climb, ascending around 300m up the rough volcanic path. The view is incredible, it dominates the valley, the higher we get, the more beautiful it gets.
Once in the South Crater, you have a choice: you can either consider the unmarked trail leading up towards Mt Ngauruhoe or not – If you do, you’ll add three hours to the hike. I didn’t, but I will definitely do that part next time I go to New Zealand. The view from the volcano is supposed to be incredible.
If you choose to continue straight like I did, you’ll get to the flat part of the hike, crossing the vast basin of the caldera. This part is very impressive, it’s so pure, so wide and so naturally splendid, it’s the kind of view that exists only in the movies. Anyway, it’s time to climb again. This part is not as steep as the Devil’s Staircase, and the reward on top is unbelievable: the Red Crater.
This is one of the most moving moments of my trip. I didn’t expect to see that huge red crater. It’s absolutely fantastic. A vast scar on the landscape, from prehistoric eruptions, right here, in front of me.
I’m overcome with emotion –and I’m not the only one. It’s the first time in my life to see a crater, and it’s the day I’ve discovered myself a passion for volcanoes. But it was just the beginning of emotions…
Fifteen minutes later, the Emerald Lakes appear below. It’s actually explosion craters filled with water. They get a neat colouring from minerals that have lurched and moved away from the surrounding thermal area.
It’s just like the picture in my New Zealand guide – my Bible. It’s real! It’s here! And it’s absolutely breathtaking. The beautiful surroundings continue until the end of the track, crossing the Central Crater, the Blue Lake and tussock slopes to the bush forest line. It’s unbelievable how quick the scenery changes.
After 6 hours of wonder, I get to the finish point, amazed (and a little tired) by this experience.
On reflection, it was by far, the best experience I had in my six months trip in New Zealand.
I hope you’ll get the chance to discover this wonderful country. Check out the video of my trip in the Kiwi’s land – I can’t watch it without any nostalgia.
Author: Marie Pottiez
Marie Pottiez is a travel blogger, founder of Miles of Happiness. Curious about everything, she has an unquenchable thirst for discovery and sharing. Originally from Provence (France), she lived in Belgium, New Zealand and Indonesia, before settling down in Hong Kong in 2014. She spends as much time as possible traveling throughout Asia, discovering new pieces of paradise all year long. You can follow her adventures on Instagram, and get inspired with her Pinterest.
3 Responses
Beautiful! and the video is amazing.
It looks amazing doesn’t it Emma? Dying to go to New Zealand now!
What an absolutely fantastic guest post, Marie! Thank you for sharing her with us. I can totally “feel” your emotion as I did felt the same thing with the volcanos in Hawaii. This was a great escape and you had me completely mesmerized. Awesome and thank you 🙂