Ever since I saw a photo of Livraria Lello, known commonly as one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world, I was seduced into seeing it for myself.
Finally, I was standing outside the entrance looking up at its chalk-white façade with intricate neo-gothic carvings in the centre of downtown Porto. But there was a problem. A queue to go in was stretching half way down the street so after a quick rethink I turned away in pursuit of quieter corners. It was Saturday afternoon after all so I should have expected the crowds. Livraria Lello might be small but it can hardly call itself a hidden gem.
Part of its popularity can also be thanked to J.K. Rowling who was a regular customer whilst she lived in Porto teaching English as a foreign language in the early 90s, and more importantly, where she wrote the beginning chapters of Harry Potter.
Inside Livraria Lello Bookshop
After my first attempt to enter was squashed, I was now back again on Monday, and to my relief there wasn’t a queue. I bought an entrance ticket for the princely sum of €3 and was told by the staff that this fee would be knocked off any book I purchased. That’s not a bad deal, eh?
As soon as I entered, the book-cladded walls weren’t the first thing I noticed. With more curves than Marilyn Monroe and Betty Boop put together, the spiral art nouveau staircase carved from wood and finished in the centre with glossy red paint presented a show-stopping entrance.
There’s something inexplicably alluring about the way the wooden structure flows like water and spreads out at the top to connect the ground floor with the mezzanine.
I climbed the stairs and was greeted with a beautiful stained-glass ceiling inscribed with the words, ‘Decus in Labore’ which translates to ‘dignity in work’.
Every inch of the building appeared tantalising for the eyes, mind and body. Similar to libraries, there’s something special about bookshops. They change how you feel and behave. They make you tread gently as though not to scare away the characters burrowed within the pages of all the books.
Even if you’re not a bookworm or much of a reader, I recommend going for the stunning interior. The woodwork alone is a thing of absolute beauty. There are also busts of famous Portuguese artists that peer down at you from the shelves.
Most of the books on display were in Portuguese, so I went for a more practical purchase by reaching for a city guidebook on Porto. The €3 entrance fee was deducted from the original price too.
I would definitely recommend visiting this stunning bookstore. It’s not just a place for bookworms, though I imagine it has no trouble converting those who enter.
The only thing to remember is this place is small and it can get crowded. The best time to go is later in the day after the crowds have whittled down or during the week.
Opening times: Saturday: 10:00 a.m. – 7:00 p.m. Sunday: Closed. Monday – Friday: 10:00 a.m. – 7:30 p.m.
Address: R. das Carmelitas 144, 4050-161 Porto.
Where to stay in Porto
For all you literary lovers out there, I have the perfect hotel for you! Torel Palace Porto is a completely refurbished former palace transformed into an exquisite boutique hotel with no expanse to detail spared. The design is around a literary theme with each bedroom named after an author.
Despite its spacious size, there are only 24 rooms to ensure that each guest has a personal and intimate experience once they enter. High ceilings are decorated with beautiful stucco work and huge windows let the light flood in. If you’re looking to relax, you can find a cosy spot in the library, or soak in the beautiful outdoor pool.
Visiting Porto and looking for more inspiration?
Further reading on Porto:
→ Architecture in Porto: 5 Contemporary Buildings You Should See
→ Fabulous Things to do in Porto
Want to see more bookshops around the world?
→ Word on the Water: The Boat That Transformed into a Bookshop in London
Pin it for your future travel plans! ↓
18 Responses
Wow! Just wow! You’ve prompted me to post the photo of Cărturești Carusel in Bucharest – it too is stunning but it’s got nothing on Livraria Lello. Here’s my photo https://www.instagram.com/p/-Y0r6XC6Cu/
Ahhh I have been eyeing up that bookshop in Bucharest ever since I saw an article about it on the Guardian! It looks delicious, so glad you’ve seen it!
amazing photos and a great article. thank you!
Glad you enjoy seeing more about this beautiful bookshop William! 🙂
What a beautiful place! I’m sure I could get lost in here for hours. “more curves than Marilyn Monroe and Betty Boop put together” really sums up that staircase!
And if I’m being really honest Katie, most of all, the stairs remind me a certain aspect of the female anatomy. I don’t think you’ll need anymore clues to guess what 😉
I reckon the Waterstones on New Street in Birmingham was inspired by this bookstore, it looks a blatant copy although the staircase in Brum is more The Governess from The Chase than Marilyn Monroe!
Hahahaha the Governess… now I’m intrigued Richard!
If Harry Potter has some scenes in Portugal, this bookstore would fit in Porto’s version of the Diagon Alley!
Very true! Though it’s said this bookstore was the inspiration for the library in Harry Potter, I can’t remember the book’s description but the similarities are supposedly apparent!
I knew it! No wonder that staircase looks somewhat familiar to me!
What an amazing place Shing. Almost overload on the senses.
It’s a really inspiring place Ted, not just for the books but the craftsmanship of the building!
Wow this place is incredible! It’s so beautiful! I don’t think I’ve been to very many beautiful libraries! I need to up my library game!
Hi Megan, it’s a showstopper, eh?! I hope you get to visit this bookshop one day. I think I’m going to make a point to visit more bookshops and libraries whenever I’m in a new city from now on!
This bookstore looks absolutely gorgeous! I visited Portugal last year, I wish I knew about this 🙁 will definitely have to return just to check out this spot! Thanks for writing about it 🙂
Glad I’ve put this bookstore on your radar Mehek, but I’m sorry you missed it the first time!
Glad to know about the bookstore. We visited the Magestic Cafe last summer and knew of it’s connection to Harry Potter, but wasn’t aware of the bookstore. It’s on our list of ‘go back to’ places. Porto is a great town with great people.
thanks