Traditional cave dwelling in Petra
For thousands of years up until recently, people have slept inside the caves that you can still see in Petra’s extraordinary landscape. But thirty-years ago, in an attempt to preserve Petra, the Jordanian government relocated its cave dwelling community to Wadi Musa, a nearby village two kilometres away.
Shortly after Petra was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The people who relocated – the Bedul tribe – are the only people allowed to sell or work inside Petra.
However, from speaking to a few Bedouins, I am told that a few families do still live inside the caves of Petra’s main site despite the tighter restrictions. He said a lot of people didn’t want to move, Petra has been their home for generations and they don’t want to give up their way of life.
How to sleep in a cave nearby Petra
What I do know is that Bedouins do sleep in caves nearby the main site in villages such as Umm Sayhun and you can book a night via Airbnb. Cool, right?
Instead of adapting to more comfortable living quarters, many of the people who had to relocate outside of Petra did so with minimal change by once again making a cave a home. I wasn’t aware of Petra’s cave dwelling tradition until I arrived, and so I was disappointed because spending a night inside one of these unique living quarters would have been extremely interesting to experience.
Explore the caves inside Petra's main archeological site
If like me you have already booked your accommodation in Petra, that doesn’t mean you should miss out on exploring the caves.
For the curious minded it’s difficult not to look inside each cave you pass. Most of time they’re just empty, or maybe you’ll find a donkey or two retreating from the heat of the sun. The best cave I came across sits opposite the great Monastery. I suggest taking the short climb inside it, and there you can settle for a while because this cave really does have the ultimate view. You’ll definitely want a rest after making the ten-kilometre hike to the Monastery from Petra’s entrance (or via the spectacular back entrance of Little Petra!)
When you walk inside Petra and you’re surrounded by glimpses of the past. It’s difficult not to appreciate the culture and find true fascination in a way of life that so different to our own back home.
Tradition, heritage, and the overwhelming craftsmanship is the most beautiful part of experiencing Petra. Unlike most cities in the world, you can imagine what it may have looked like two thousand years ago, an image that isn’t too dissimilar to what we see now.
Bedouin hospitality
Many faces look well worn by life, but we are told from the younger Bedouins, many of whom have impeccable English, that life is enjoyed, and they wouldn’t wish to be anywhere else. He also told us that many of the people who leave their home in Petra return years later because they cannot forget the happiness they felt growing up in a cave with their family, and only a few donkeys and a flock of goats. I was really happy to hear their desire for a simpler life brought them back.
Anyone who engages with the local Bedouins will realise that hospitality is part of their blood, ingrained from the harshness of desert life – that no traveller is turned away.
Thankfully, this high standard of hospitality is widespread throughout Jordan because you will discover everyone welcomes you with open arms, everyone smiles at you, and everyone is eager to help a stranger.
Don’t get me wrong, I agree that advances in science and technology are needed to push a society, but now our actions are catching up on ourselves and the planet so we must ask the question – are we pushing our planet too much? It really does seem that in the face of modernisation preservation has become a sinking world but visiting Petra reminds me that not everywhere is like this. I really think we could learn a thing or two from the bedouins about preserving our own environment and using what we’ve already got from being here.
Cave or hotel accommodation in Petra
For accommodation in a cave: I have seen a couple advertised on Airbnb so be sure to check the website.
Hotel Accommodation in Petra (if you don’t manage to sleep in a cave!): I recommend Petra Guest House Hotel, located on the doorstep of the Petra’s entrance. The really good thing about this hotel is the Cave Bar, set in a restored 1st century Nabatean house, a gorgeous al fresco setting to relax with a cocktail after days of exploration.
Read more blogs about Jordan
Want more information about Jordan? See more 1-week travel itinerary, including Amman, Petra, Wadi Rum and the Dead Sea.
Looking for adventure? Read about hiking from Little Petra to the Monastery.
19 Responses
Absolutely beautiful pictures! The more pictures I see of Petra the more I want to visit. What a fascinating place and culture. I find caves so interesting and one of the things on my wish list is to stay at those cave hotels in Capadoccia, Turkey. I love that you talk so much to the locals to get their insights.
I would love to stay in the cave hotels in Capadoccia too! All caves are fascinating, I love the ones with stalagmites and stalactites in the most, or the huge ice cave near Salzburg! I hope you visit Petra in the near future, it really is an otherwordly kind of place!
I can’t wait to go to Petra someday! Great pictures – I especially love the last one!
I’m glad you’re hankering to go! I’m hankering to go back! It’s strange to think that the European traveller only has to sit on a plane for four hours, less for some, and they’re transported to a culture that is so incredibly different. I hope you make it soon!
Awesome post about Petra! I also just returned about a week ago and what an amazing place it was.
Are you suffering from withdrawal symptoms for lack of Jordanian tea? I am. Hope you had just as much fun as I did! 🙂
Another interesting post. Have you read the book ‘Married to a Bedouin’ which is written by a New Zealand women about her life living in a cave with her Bedouin husband. Fascinating!
No I didn’t read it! I only found out about it when I arrived in Petra, otherwise I would have read it beforehand… I guess it’s never too late to pick up the book though! Such a unique story!
Okay, that’s a pretty awesome looking cave! I wouldn’t mind camping out there for a few nights. 😉 p.s. Love the last photo!
Haha I’m not a camping girl, but these cave would be an exception to set up camp, right?!
Thanks for the emotional visit to Petra. I haven’t been but I imagine you can’t help but embrace the remarkable in cave form. Love your photos as well!
I literally embraced everything I saw with wonder! Thanks for reading Suzy 🙂
I cannot wait to go to Petra! I was just talking to my father today about visiting. Great photos and interesting read!
I hope you stick to your plans to visit! You’ll have an amazing time – I doubt Jordan’s culture and stunning landscape could fail anyone’s desires!
i have been in petra and i sty in a cave with the bedouin i was very nice to sty with the bedouin in petra.i meet ghassab and i sty in his cave very freibdly and good food bedouin life if you visit petra you can contact ghassab he is couchsorfing in petra.
https://www.couchsurfing.com/users/1486852
you will have nice time
jana from germany
Great Pictures! I am doing research on past to present day life, history, culture and ecosystems of The Negev Desert in Israel, to the Desert of Petra Jordan. I just love the culture and want to understand Bible History and culture much better. In particular, the History and Contributions of the Nabatean & Bedouin Tribes, to desert life and culture. Are there any websites and books you would recommend, for my research? It would be most deeply appreciated. Love & Respect, Abagail
There are 64 families that live in the caves within Petra. I stayed with one this week right outside the steps of the Monastery. The cave is what you would expect of a cave I guess. Dark and dirty and I slept on a mat on the ground. There was a light bulb illuminated through solar power. The one thing that caught me off guard were the sounds of donkeys throughout the night. It was almost non stop and pretty terrifying.
I visited Petra in 2012 I had an amazing time, just found out years later that i can sleep in a cave. I would love to come and visit again, It was the most amazing breath-taking place.. when i visited people asked me what I saw and what I felt. I felt very blessed. I did a little more research on Petra i would love to bring my grandchildren to see what i saw and felt how i did. I explained to them that it was some parts of the american bible that we read here, but in order to believe it they must see it,
Is potable water available?