The Faroe Islands are just a teeny tiny dot on the world map, and since tourism hasn’t taken off a great deal yet, it can be difficult to find practical information online about travelling here.
So voila! I hope to shed light on the hows, whys, whats and wheres of travelling to the Faroe Islands.
Visiting this northerly destination requires a decent amount of planning; if you rocked up expecting to walk straight into a hotel and land yourself a bed without booking in advance, there’s a high chance you’ll find yourself uncomfortably waking up with a flock of sheep.
Geography
This archipelago, consisting of 18 islands, invites you to embark on a journey where dramatic cliffs, rolling hills, and charming communities create a unique and captivating experience.
The Faroes are a self-governing nation with their own parliamentary systems, however they belong (so to speak) to the Kingdom of Denmark, similar to Greenland.
Geographically, they are closer to Scotland and Iceland. They are also visually reminiscent of both these countries so that might give you a better idea of what to expect.
One of the first things you’ll probably notice is the distinct lack of trees, just like Iceland. However, in the summer time you’ll be surrounded by lush green valleys and mountains from almost every direction, oh and sheep…
The islands are very small and isolated, but thankfully due to recently built sub-sea tunnels you’re able to travel from island to island extremely easily in no time at all.
However to get to the smaller or more distant islands you’ll need to go across on the ferry in your car which we did to get to Sandoy.
There are also some islands like Mykines where you can only go by boat or helicopter, and for this service you’ll need to book a few days in advance. If you go to the Tourist Information Centre in Torshavn at the beginning of your trip they can book any available boat trip you like.
Getting to the Faroe Islands
Getting to the Faroe Islands isn’t exactly convenient, with the only flights from the UK leaving all the way up from Edinburgh with Atlantic Airways.
Since I’m in Yorkshire I took the 3.5-hour train journey from Leeds, but if you’re living in the south it might be easier for you to go via Copenhagen.
I love both Edinburgh and Copenhagen, so I recommend staying in either city for at least two nights beforehand if you can. It’s a brilliant idea to indulge city life before unwinding in nature.
The Faroese people
Faroese people are warm and helpful, but they’re also characteristically relaxed, with blasé being a more fitting description for some.
House and car doors are often left unlocked, and it’s easy to get the impression that if you lost your wallet you’d find it back in your hands before you knew you’d even lost it.
There’s a firm sense of ‘If you scratch my back, I’ll scratch yours’ that comes with living in a small community.
I think their relaxed disposition might have something to do with living on nature’s doorstep. They don’t have the stresses of living in a modern city, the excess congestion, people, noise, pollution, consumerism, and endless other distractions. That’s my take on things anyhow.
Hiring a Car
Whilst I love how relaxed the Faroese are, it can have its downside when it comes to doing business. If they want more tourism they’ll need to start replying back to potential customers much quicker than they currently do. We rang a few car hire companies and I don’t think any of them answered the phone initially. We ended up going with a company called Unicar because they were the most affordable.
The guy who we spoke to at Unicar was amusingly informal. In most countries to hire a car you usually need to have a credit card, but neither of us did so we asked if it was necessary and he laughed and said, ‘This is the Faroe Islands, we don’t care’. In the end we paid via debit card over the phone but paying in cash on arrival would have been accepted too.
At no point did we have to provide a driving license, and because we were arriving in the evening he said he’d just leave a car waiting in the airport car park with the keys inside the glove box (talk about informal!). We identified the car because he emailed us the registration number, and also stuck a note on the windscreen that detailed the company.
Furthermore, at no point did we meet any representatives from Unicar, or sign any forms, and at the end of our trip we were informed to leave it at the airport again. Trusting, eh?! We could have damaged the car (of course we didn’t) and there would be no one around to slap our wrists.
Would I recommend Unicar? To be honest, doing it like this was ideal for us as it meant our holiday began as soon as we left the airport and finished as soon as we drove back in time for our flight. However, if anything had happened to us whilst we were driving I wouldn’t feel very confident of receiving their prompt support, so for that reason I’m not sure I would. Their services might have however improved with more tourism to the island arriving, so I’d check their reviews again.
Accommodation in the Faroe Islands
If you don’t have a car, I would recommend saying close to Torshavn. It acts as the capital and with a harbor it’s also the main point of contact with the rest of the world.
You won’t find any fancy 5-star hotels, but the most regarded accommodation is Hotel Foroyar, also where KOKS, the best restaurant in town is located.
We opted to stay in an Airbnb apartment approximately 5-minutes drive from the centre and with its own balcony overlooking the sea and mountains, we could not have asked for anything more.
Better still, if you have a car, I would recommend staying in two different places if you have time. For a contrast, I suggest staying somewhere a bit lively like Torshavn as previously mentioned, and somewhere more remote and closer to nature like Vagar.
I recommend staying at The View, which has stunning views across the beach and sea, including of Drangarnir Rocks which is one of the island’s most unique rock formations. The accommodation couldn’t be more picturesque with its traditional turf roof and cosy but modern wooden interior.
Money and Costs
Just like any Scandinavian country, you’ve got to dig a little further into your pockets than most places. However, with barely any shops and sources of entertainment that could otherwise bleed you dry, you end up saving money by default. And once you set your sight on the nature, it’s a true reminder that the best things in life are free.
Expect to pay upwards of £100 for a double room in a hotel per night, and slightly cheaper options can be found on Airbnb and at the youth hostel in the centre of Torshavn. Unfortunately, accommodation is one aspect of your holiday that’s difficult to do on the cheap.
Faroese krone is printed on the islands but has exactly the same monetary value as Danish kroner. Whilst some places accept Danish krone, it’s still advisable to change what you think you might need for the trip. Cash machines are scarce outside of Torshavn, but you’ll be able to pay with your card in most places, with Mykines island being the exception. At the time of writing this, the exchange rate shows £1 = 10.5 DKK.
And whilst money is just money, the Faroese notes are rather beautiful. As you can see, they often depict the beautiful Faroese landmarks that are treasured by locals and visitors alike.
Weather in the Faroe Islands
Hope for clear skies and sunshine but expect rain, fog and wind!
The average temperature in winter lies at an average of 3°, and 12° in summer. The highest temperature ever recorded in the islands is a respectable 22°. Still, it’s hardly bikini weather so I recommend the art of layering and wearing a raincoat should go without saying….
Puffins, when and how?
Between late May and mid to late August thousands of puffins fly back to the Faroe Islands for breeding season. Mykines is the best place to see the birds, followed by Vestmanna where you have the opportunity to go on a boat to spot more. It’s a very good idea to bring a pair of binoculars.
Where to Eat in the Faroe Islands
With the economy being dependent on fishing, its no surprise to hear the seafood is very good on the Faroe Islands. However, you’re not spoilt for choice when it comes down to the restaurants, with the majority of them being in Torshavn.
The best restaurant across all the islands is the award-winning KOKS, it’s supposed to be incredible in every sense of the word but sadly it wasn’t within my budget.
However I’d read very good things about Etika, a Japanese restaurant in the centre of town so we went there on our last night. It was good, but it didn’t blow my mind or anything – perhaps it’s not fair that I compare all sushi to the ones I’ve had in Japan though!
If you’re on a budget, or looking for vegetarian options then Circus should be the place you’re looking for. The interior is very quirky – think more hippy then Scandinavian minimalism, and it’s also the place I’d go if I wanted to neck back a few drinks. What’s more, the portion sizes are decent and the option of a tasty veggie burger and falafel wrap can be found here.
When I was in Vestmanna I probably had the greatest fish soup of my life at the café in the information centre (of all places would you believe). It was chockablock with an assortment of fish and crustaceans. I presumed it was an all-you-can-eat since I kept seeing the same people going back up for more so I inconspicuously followed suit. Not bad for approx. £10.
Recommend hiking trails
If you’re planning a trip to the Faroe Islands, there’s a high chance that you love hiking, so here are some of the best hiking routes that you can enjoy in the Faroes.
- Sørvágsvatn (Leitisvatn) Trail: This iconic hike takes you to the famous optical illusion where the lake appears to float above the ocean. The trail offers stunning views of the surrounding cliffs and coastline. Distance: 6.8 km out-and-back.
- Slættaratindur: The highest peak in the Faroe Islands, standing at 880 metres (2,887 feet), offers a challenging yet rewarding hike. On a clear day, you can see panoramic views of several islands. Distance: 3.5-km out-and-back.
- Gásadalur to Bøur: This one-way coastal hike takes you from the picturesque village of Gásadalur to the charming village of Bøur. Along the way, you’ll enjoy stunning views of cliffs, waterfalls, and the iconic Drangarnir sea stacks. Distance: 7 km.
- Mykines: Mykines is only asccessible by boat or helicopter, but it’s definitely worth going. In fact it’s my favourite island on the Faroes! Mykines offers some of the best birdwatching opportunities in the Faroe Islands. The hike to the Holmur Lighthouse provides breathtaking views of the cliffs and nesting seabirds. Distance: 6 – 7km
- Kallur Lighthouse: Located on the island of Kalsoy, this hike takes you to the edge of dramatic cliffs overlooking the North Atlantic Ocean. The panoramic views of the surrounding islands are simply spectacular. Distance: 4.5 km out-and-back.
Are you planning a trip to the Faroe Islands?
25 Responses
How long would you recommend a fast traveller to stay in the Faroe islands? Enough to see all highlights without feeling rushed, but also without a need for peace & quiet time? 😉
The Faroe Islands are not very big so I would probably recommend 5 nights if that’s possible! And you definitely can’t miss Mykines!
Hmmm maybe I should answer your question in the body of this post. Time of an update – thanks for giving me this idea Wesley!
The Faroe Islands have always fascinated me but all I new was that it was hard to get too and the weather could be tricky! Your fabulous guide provides all the answers I need and more, thank you Shing.
Great, glad you’ve found this blog useful Jenny! Maybe another trip to Copenhagen is in order? 😉
Desperately want to visit the Faroe Island now!!!!
As much as I want to go to Greenland?!
You def go to Greenland, best trip of my life.
Shame it’s a pain to get to. If there were direct flights from BHX I’d have gone by now. I might ask you for that Airbnb link if I ever do make it. Do you think hiring a car is essential if you stay in the main town? I hate driving when abroad!
Hi Richard! Yeh definitely ask me for the Airbnb link if you go. Hmmm if I’m honest I think a place like the Faroes really benefits from hiring a car because being able to jump out at any point is a great freedom to have. However, the bus services are supposed to be very good from Torshavn and you can also book ferry and helicopter rides from the centre so you might be sorted actually! However, I think the Faroe Islands will be the perfect place to combat your hate for driving abroad – you’ll have the roads completely to yourself!
You’ve written a really cool guide Shing. Thanks a million!
For some reason, I always thought that the Faroe islands were part of the United Kingdom so it’s nice to be correctly informed as well as how and what to do when we get there.
Thanks Victoria. Yeh little is still known about the Faroes, and because it’s so close to Scotland I reckon that’s quite a common assumption!
Amazing pics and great information, thanks for this! I started looking at flights to the Faroes halfway through it…
Ahh that’s great to know Jerry! Let me know if you need anymore tips should you decide to go! 🙂
Hello!
I loved your photos so much! So amazing. Could I ask which camera and lens you used for this trip to the Faroe Islands? Also, how may I request your Air bnb link? 🙂 xx
Hi Rachel, I’m sorry for the late reply but hopefully it will still be useful for you. I used a 50mm lens. And this is the link for the Airbnb apartment I used in during my trip in the Faroes: https://www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/6010727?s=X0A8vKrH
If you have anymore questions just give me a shout!
Great post, but after visiting Faroe Islands there is one thing bugging me….and it is the Unicar car rental review. After hiring with them a really old smelly car, and visiting tripadvisor forums you realize that their service and cars are really bad.
Driving near those cliffs with those cars could be a life or death matter.
Please, check the forums and, maybe, consider changing your review, beacuse I think it is not helping to travellers (I know you did it with good intentions but the review it is not up to reallity with Unicar).
https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowForum-g190329-i5368-Faroe_Islands.html
Hi Pak, I’m sorry for this inexcusably late reply. Running this blog is just a hobby of mine, and sometimes when I have a more thoughtful message I need to reply to my good intentions of a thorough reply seem to drag out.
On reflection, I should update this post with more information about alternative car hire suggestions. I was pretty happy with the actual experience with Unicar in terms of the car and the information they provided me. However, I was perplexed with how informal they were, and I can only wonder what might have happened if I had actually had a problem! Would they have dealt with it swiftly? Who knows…. but my point is, I wouldn’t have much confidence and so for that reason I should provide an alternative suggestion.
Thanks for picking me up on this, it’s important to me that I give out the best advice I can, so thanks.
Thank you for understanding my point of view Shing. I checked and found out that you changed your post.
Keep up the good job.
Best regards.
Hey Shing! I’m a friend of Megan Starr’s and she linked me to your page today. I also have a travel blog and just today I’ve booked the ferry from Denmark to F.I where I plan to be driving with my Australian cousin for 8 full days!
The ferry gets in at 5AM so I’m trying to find some suitable accommodation that will let us in at that ungodly hour. Any chance you could recommend some Airbnbs or hotels to me? I love the one where you stayed but no doubt it’s unavailable as there are only 14% of Faroe properties left.
We’re arriving on the 5th of June and leaving on the 11th – hopefully we’ll be able to bring some cupboard food from Germany to save money here or there.
Any advice on driving through those scary one lane tunnels? I’m petrified to tell you the truth – I don’t fare well in small spaces…. Maybe I won’t encounter any of them? I want to visit: Eysturoy, Kalsoy, Bordoy, Streymoy, Mykines and Vagar… would you recommend just using Torshavn as the base? OR would you move around every 2-3 nights?
Would really love your assistance! Your page is great – well done.
Cheers,
Phoebe
Hi Phoebe! Sorry about the late reply – but yey, you’re going to the Faroe Islands! The 5am landing time could be tricky, however, your best bet is to contact the Airbnb owner beforehand to see if they could leave the key somewhere for you to pick up? Or maybe you might have to enjoy killing time in your hire-car for a couple of hours (given you can pick up your car-hire) and see if they’ll meet you at 7-8am? It’s not ideal but that might be your best bet! With a car, I stayed in this lovely little studio apartment, but I’m not sure what the availability is like (He seems to have a few properties so check out his profile if the one I stayed at is fully booked) https://www.airbnb.co.uk/rooms/6010727?s=X0A8vKrH It’s about a 5-10 minutes drive from Torshavn and located by the ocean so the views are stunning. You could book somewhere in the centre of Torshavn but if you have a car I don’t think it really makes a difference, plus I suspect it’ll be a little pricer (hotels in the Faroes are not cheap, though I’m not sure what your budget is….)
Because you’re there for a couple of nights longer than I was, it might be a cool idea to stay somewhere else as you suggested. If you’re going to Mykines, then Vagar would be quite ideal. Or you could head East to somewhere around Klaksvik which is the second biggest town in the Faroes – but it’s still tiny! Towns are more teeny tiny villages, so you’ll get a collection of residential houses, a hotel and maybe a cafe and a restaurant. However, there are some good walking routes around that area. You can drive across the Faroes in about 1h 45m so I don’t think it’s necessary to move about too frequently. I think, as you said, choosing two places offers a nice mix.
In regards to tunnels, I didn’t come across any one lane tunnels, I’m pretty sure they were dual lanes. However, I did come across some one lane roads so you might find them a little precarious to navigate, but you’ll find plenty of places to pull over so you’ll be okay. Don’t worry about driving in the Faroes, it’s super easy and you’re surrounded by stunning landscapes. The only thing you need to watch out for when driving are sheep – they’re everywhere!
The only place you didn’t say on your list was Sandoy which I think is definitely worth visiting! It’s super easy to get there. You just drive down to the ferry deport south of Streymoy (if my memory serves me correct – double check) and you can drive on the ferry in your car. It’s super easy and the island has a beach and a gorgeous little village called Dalur with colourful houses. The winding, (one lane) drive to reach the village is stunning, I promise!
I hope this somewhat helps you, feel free to ask anymore questions and I’ll try and help.
I’ll look forward to reading about your trip when the time comes! 🙂
Hi! I was wondering about Unicar, I am traveling for a few days to the islands and as an underage driver (20) unicar was the only rental who had no underage fee’s. Did the car feel safe? Were they responsive enough? I am worried about not having transportation. Can’t wait to go though! Thanks!
Hello Sophie.
As I said in a previous post, I wouldn’t hire with them:
After hiring with them a really old smelly car, and visiting tripadvisor forums you realize that their service and cars are really bad.
Driving near those cliffs with those cars could be a life or death matter.
Please, check the forums and, maybe, consider changing your review, beacuse I think it is not helping to travellers (I know you did it with good intentions but the review it is not up to reallity with Unicar).
https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowForum-g190329-i5368-Faroe_Islands.html
Scotland is my favorite country and I would like to combine a visit to the Faroe Islands with my next visit to Scotland. Thanks for the informative post
Hi Shing, I loved your post about the Faroe Islands. It really looks like a stunningly beautiful place and that view from your balcony was exceptional. Would you have watched the Grindadrap, if it had happened while you were there? I know it is a controversial topic, but it is for food and personally, I don’t have a problem with it. I would love to know your thoughts about it. Keep up the good work x
What is the name of the Airbnb near Tórshavn. The link you provided didn’t work. Heading there in July 2019. Thanks Jeffrey