Franz Josef Land: Secrets of the Russian High Arctic

The 192 islands of the Franz Josef Land Archipelago have long been shrouded in mystery and secrecy. Located northeast of Svalbard and between the Russian mainland and the North Pole, these remote islands are notoriously inaccessible due to heavy sea-ice conditions and severe weather for a good portion of the year.

Unlike Greenland or Svalbard, Franz Josef Land does not have and never has had a resident population or hunting tradition. The archipelago remained virtually unknown until 1873, when it was discovered purely by chance. An Austrian-Hungarian expedition accidentally drifted there, trapped by ice floes, and named the islands to honour their emperor.

During the Soviet era, travel restrictions imposed by Russian authorities made these islands almost completely off limits to tourists. Even now, independent travel to the Franz Josef Land Archipelago is nearly impossible. Access is permitted only with an expedition cruise ship or icebreaker. In some parts of the archipelago, compelling secrets reveal themselves as if coming back from the depths of history.

Cape Norway, Jackson Island

Nowhere in the Arctic is the heroism and drama of early polar exploration more plainly evident than in Franz Josef Land. Among the many historical sites nestled within this desolate wilderness, perhaps none is more poignant than Cape Flora. Here, legendary explorers Fridtjof Nansen and Hjalmar Johansen spent the winter of 1895-96 in a dwelling consisting of a shallow hole, low earthen walls and a roof of walrus skins supported by a driftwood log. One can still see the walls and even the weathered log beam of the shelter they called “the Hole”, a chilling reminder of the privations endured by these polar pioneers.

Franz Josef Land in the Arctic regions

Cape Flora, Northbrook Island

Being one of the more accessible locations in the archipelago, Cape Flora on Northbrook Island served as a base for many polar expeditions in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. This site, lovely in the light of summer, was the scene of many harrowing ordeals and incredible feats of winter survival during that era. Artefacts visible all across the tundra can still be assigned to these various dramatic episodes in polar history. A plaque commemorates the famous meeting of Fridtjof Nansen and Frederick George Jackson, which occurred here in June 1896 – an amazing coincidence that saved Nansen’s life.

Champ Island

Probably the most wondrous surprise is to be found on Champ Island, where visitors can wander among numerous naturally occurring geodes (stone spheres) strewn across a stark polar desert landscape. The mysterious spheres range in size from a few centimetres to two meters wide.

Champ Island, Franz Josef Land, Russia

As is true everywhere in the Franz Josef Land Archipelago, careful observation reveals even more secrets in the form of delicate wildflowers, rare Arctic birds, majestic polar bears and beluga whales posing as cream-coloured icebergs just offshore. A very special place that has witnessed both triumph and drama, Franz Josef Land is a far-away jewel of the precious Arctic crown.

Travelling to Franz Josef Land in the high Arctic of Russia.

How to travel to Franz Josef Land

With Poseidon Expeditions, you can visit Franz Josef Land in two different expedition routes, with six cruises already scheduled for summer 2020. Their 20 years of polar experience translate into a thorough understanding and appreciation of the Arctic.

One is a North Pole cruise: the most powerful icebreaker in the world, “50 Years of Victory”, takes you to 90 degrees north. In addition to the exhilaration of cruising aboard a state-of-the-art icebreaker and the thrill of standing at the top of the world, you spend a few days exploring the Franz Josef Land archipelago, using the onboard helicopter for landings on the most remote islands.

Poseidon Expeditions also feature a 14-day cruise specifically tailored to discover Franz Josef Land, being the only operator in the industry to offer direct sailing from Longyearbyen within 1.5 days. This journey crosses the icy Barents Sea to the Russian High Arctic on a voyage that combines the spirit of adventure with a generous measure of comfort onboard the luxury m/v Sea Spirit.

In each cruise, their polar team of historians, scientists, researchers, and professional photographers share their expert knowledge with you.

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Hi, I'm Shing

Welcome to The Culture Map, a place where I share my travel guides, adventurous tales, and capture the inspiring diversity of our world.

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