Ireland is commonly referred to as the “Emerald Isle,” due to the vast greenery that dominates the island. You’ll also find the colour green emblazoned on the nation’s flag as well as depicted on Irish symbols such as shamrocks and leprechauns. The colour green is truly ubiquitous with Ireland.
Most of the Irish countryside is dotted with farms and national parks, while the landscape in almost every county offers some of the greenest hills in Europe.
Among one of the most captivating places in the Emerald Isle is Carrauntoohil, the highest mountain in Ireland. Recently, it has been my wish to stand on its peak and take in the sprawling and spectacular vistas.
I did the essential planning, booked my ticket, flung my hiking boots in my rucksack and off I went to the hills.
About Carrauntoohil
Located in the sublime Macgillycuddy’s Reeks mountain range in the ‘Kingdom County’ of Ireland, County Kerry, Carrauntoohil stands at 1,039 m (3408.793 ft).
Although slightly shorter than the highest peaks in Scotland and Wales, it doesn’t necessarily mean it’s easier to reach the top. If you ask people who have crossed off these peaks (myself included) the question, “Which is the hardest?”, most people will probably answer Carrauntoohil.
This is because the paths are less obvious, the weather is more unpredictable and the terrain is more rocky. All these things combined mean it’s technically more difficult and hazardous.
Covering an area of 100 square kilometres, the Macgillycuddy’s Reeks is comprised of 27 peaks, as well as several lakes, forests, cliffs, and ridges for you to explore. If you’re itching for adventure, hiking Ireland’s highest mountain and its surrounding areas provides a powerful antidote.
Assessing the weather
As I tentatively drew back the curtains in the morning, I grimaced at the sight of rain and low-slung clouds staring back at me. There wasn’t even a whisper of blue sky that I could latch on to any hope of sunshine.
The weather was not what anyone would call optimal for hiking. Should I even climb the mountain? I asked myself. I was flying back to London the following day, but my flight wasn’t until the evening so there was a possibility that if I woke up really early I would be able to hike up Carrauntoohil the following morning instead. However, there would also be the possibility that the weather would still be less than desirable. In the end, I figured it wasn’t worth taking the chance. Today was my only opportunity.
The first rule of hiking any mountain is safety, and as the changing weather conditions probably account for most accidents on the mountains, I reasoned with myself that I would attempt the hike and turn back if necessary. I was well prepared: I had good quality hiking boots, a raincoat, layers, gloves, rucksack with essential items and my boyfriend packed some hiking poles in case we needed them.
Selected Route: The Devil's Ladder
There are several routes up Carrauntoohil of various lengths and difficulty. The most straight forward route is via Devil’s Ladder. If the visibility was going to be poor, at least the route would be obvious to ensure keeping on track.
Distance: (7.1 miles)
Hiking Time: 4-6 Hours
Starting Location: Cronin’s Yard
I debated about doing the Brother O’Shea’s Gully Trail which also starts from Cronin’s Yard. It’s the easiest route in terms of length and technicality, but I was drawn to the Devil’s Ladder. It just sounded too exciting to resist.
From Cronin's Yard to the base of Carrauntoohil
The start of the hike begins at Cronin’s Yard where there’s a cosy cafe, toilets, car park, and even accommodation in the style of cute wooden pods. If you’re looking for a really outdoorsy experience, it’s worth checking their website for availability.
It was a relatively flat and straightforward walk of about 50 minutes to the foot of Carrauntoohil. We passed over rivers, bridges and stepping stones, and weaved between lakes, boulders and hills.
The lakes are called Lake Gouragh and Lake Callee, so if you’re walking between them, you know you’re on the right track.
There were very few people braving the hike. We said hello to those we passed, and flashed a reciprocal grin as though to say, ‘ahhh another mad person”, acknowledging that hiking Carrauntoohil in these conditions was not for the faint-hearted.
Although the rain stopped and started throughout, there was something exhilarating about it – it felt as though the elements were conspiring against me. I felt alive. As the sky looked thick and heavy and otherworldly clouds slung over the mountaintops, the whole scene looked straight out of a film.
Sheep grazed about us, the hardy, rugged kind that can navigate a mountain. Some were scattered along the side of the mountain and we stopped to admire the way they nimbly hopped from one section to another without hesitation.
This track to the foot of the mountain may have been the easiest part of our journey. We stopped at the base of the Devil’s Ladder and stared up at the formidable route to the top.
Scrambling up Carrauntoohil via the Devil's Ladder
After all the rain, a small river was rapidly flowing down the route we had to scramble up. After an hour spent trying to avoid the paths that were boggy and full of puddles, there was no escaping getting caught up in the water if we were to go ahead.
I was told this section was where most of the accidents happen. In the summer when the weather is great and people are on holiday, a bottleneck can sometimes form while waiting for people to pass and move aside. People lose their footing and fall backwards. However, there was not a single soul on this section. I guess people had seen the abysmal weather in the morning and had decided that Carrauntoohil could wait, and the others had set off earlier and were now going down a different route. There was a silver lining; without the stress of other climbers getting in the way, it meant I could go slower and concentrate better.
This section of the hike was by far the most fun precisely because it was more challenging. I needed to stretch out my legs and use my hands to pull myself over the top of rocks like a monkey. It was scary at times, often needing to pause to regain my composure and test the rocks were secure. Every so often I called out to Vassili to check if he was okay and every time he seemed to be doing better than I was. About half-way up the Devil’s Ladder he had managed to overtake me without little struggle and even suggested that we go back down this route. I replied that it was utter madness to even contemplate coming back down this way. It wasn’t safe in this weather: one slip and we’d amount to being two baked pies splatted at the base of the mountain.
In total, the Devil’s Ladder took around 35-minutes, some people will manage to get up quicker, but with so many slippery rocks, I didn’t trust my footing so I took my time to ensure each step was considered and safe.
The hardest part was now over. As we reached the top of the Devil’s Ladder and looked back to where we had started, the clouds had separated and sunlight spilled over the valley. The weather was still far from perfect, but the view was undeniably beautiful and even the rain had ceased.
We spent a few minutes gleefully taking in the view and securing it to memory. A crisp, cool breeze of the freshest air you can find seemed to be celebrating and twirling around us.
To our right the view was clear, but the peak to our left was completely shrouded by thick cloud. From the blogs we had read, we knew it was only approximately another 15 minutes so we made a dash for it.
It was a steep but walkable hill covered in slate-like rocks and there didn’t seem to be any identifiable path to the top so we just scrambled up any way that seemed safe yet direct. Luckily, there was a huge metal cross signalling the peak that wasn’t visible from the top of the Devil’s Ladder due to the poor visibly, and unlike the view moment’s earlier, it was a total whiteout at the top. We didn’t wait around, we knew we had already taken enough chances with the weather so we quickly began our decent.
The route back down
Someone had told me that there was another easier route back down poetically named ‘Heavenly Gates’, but the visibility was so poor we didn’t want to spend anymore time trying to find it, instead we went back down the way we came, passing the top of the Devil’s Ladder and hiking in the direction of the sunshine. We went over another peak also poetically named ‘Hill of the Wave’ (Cnoc na Toinne) which then goes into a zig-zag path alongside the mountain to the bottom of the lakes which we passed before approaching Devil’s Ladder.
It was longer but a lot less precarious and that suited me just fine.
Final thoughts about hiking Carrauntoohil
First of all, the ‘Devil’s Ladder’ deserves its name. The entire time I was on the section I could feel the tickle of adrenaline in my blood.
I can’t tell you how important it is to pay attention to the weather, no ascent is worth taking major risks for. If you feel too unsure or concerned, it’s always best to turn back. In fact, as we were heading to the Devil’s Ladder, a few people we passed made the choice to turn back after seeing the river that had formed.
But among all, perhaps the thing that stuck out for me the most was the landscape. It was so…. green. Every single shade of this glorious colour presented itself on Carrauntoohil.
Where to stay
Killarney is the nearest major town to Carrauntoohil, and it also has a small airport, making it easy to reach. The distance between Killarney and Cronin’s Yard is approx 11 miles (18 kilometres).
Whether you’re looking for a central location, a lakeside retreat, or a budget-friendly option, Killarney offers a range of choices to suit various preferences and budgets while you explore the natural beauty of County Kerry.
I stayed at the Lake Hotel, which is picturesque hotel on the shores of Lough Leane, offering exceptional lake views. If you want to be immersed in nature, there’s few better places!
Another beautiful location is The Gap of Dunlop. This area is 15km from Carrauntoohil and also offers a wealth of alternative walking trails from your doorstep.
4 Responses
Another mountain on your list! Which will be next???
That’s a question I’m asking myself! 😀
Wonderful photography and an extremely inspiring account. Why bother with the Himalayas when these views together with invigorating fresh, unpolluted air are right here on our doorstep. Ireland is a beautiful country and the folk living here super-friendly and helpful.
You’re right, you have everything on your doorstep! Ireland sure is beautiful and home to some of the friendliest people I’ve met. Thanks for reading – I hope to return soon! 🙂