If some of you lovely readers have been around for a few years, you might know that a piece of my heart lies in Scandinavia. It’s the region of the world that fills me with endless wonder and inspiration and my go-to place to recharge my batteries.
Now that travel restrictions have finally lifted in most places around the world, I’m happy I can begin to enjoy my favourite pastime of travelling once again more easily, particularly as my batteries have been in desperate need of recharging, and for this I turned to Norway.
My friends and I swung a few places around and finally decided upon Stavanger, with Pulpit Rock being the attraction that sealed the deal!
Flying into Stavanger
I didn’t have much time for a long holiday so I set my sight on Stavanger, a short 1h 30m flight from London. Located on the southwestern coast of Norway, it’s the 4th largest city in Norway but its greatest appeal is its close proximity to the fjords and mountains.
Along with a few wonderful friends consisting of my ardent travel companion Ruchi, her delightful hubby Ale, and my long-suffering boyfriend, Vas, we grabbed our hiking boots and in less time than it would take to walk around Hyde Park, we were already filling our lungs up with the cool, crisp air I had been longing to experience once again.
We landed in Stavanger airport at about 3 pm, and since the days are longer at the beginning of May, we hopped in our car-hire and headed straight to Pulpit Rock.
The sun was shining and within moments of leaving the airport, the beauty of Norway began to reveal itself en route. The only thing we needed now was an essential playlist, so we yanked up the volume to Led Zepplin’s Stairway to Heaven, and the noise and clutter of London already felt like a million miles away.
How easy is the hike up Pulpit Rock?
Since everyone has different fitness levels, it’s always tricky to give a precise opinion on a hike’s difficulty. However, I’d say its a moderate hike, and probably easier than you might expect it to be.
To put it into perspective, the Norwegians who are a fit nation in general say it’s easy, but I’ve read other people saying it’s challenging – I think somewhere in between is more accurate. Overall, since the elevation isn’t too high (~1,000 ft), I’d say if you’re comfortable walking for 4-5 hours at one time, you shouldn’t have any problems. My fitness level is completely average and I didn’t find it challenging so hopefully that should put any apprehensions you have at bay.
The trail is very well-marked and completely safe. However, when we went at the beginning of May there was still some snow in certain sections, so I’d advise taking it slow and steady if you’re travelling before summer to avoid slipping. Once you reach the top, you’ll have an incredible vista overlooking Lysefjord.
Hiking the trail to Pulpit Rock
The beginning of the hike to Pulpit is the most intense stretch, with the first 20 minutes or so consisting of an entirely uphill slope.
This took the form of well-maintained rock steps weaving picturesquely between trees and rocks. For a point of reference, if you’ve hiked up somewhere like Snowdon, or Ben Nevis, it’s not too dissimilar to that type of terrain – only easier because it’s shorter.
Once we got over the initial incline, things sped up once the trail levelled out. A series of mostly-flat boardwalks made the next hour of the hike significantly easier, and we enjoyed the vistas along the way, including a lake and we stopped at a cute, little hiking cabin and admired its modern architecture. The Norwegians have a knack at contemporary design; using materials of wood and glass that enhance the natural beauty, rather than detracting from it.
The final 30 minutes of the hike were a little more arduous, mainly due to the snow, so we took it slowly, especially since Vas had had knee surgery at Christmas after falling awkwardly while playing basketball, tearing his ACL and meniscus in the process. Ouch! In retrospect he should have brought some hiking poles for extra safety but I’m relieved to report back that he managed it without re-injuring himself!
Throughout the hike, the scenery just kept getting more and more spectacular. We were stopping not because we were out of breath, but because the landscape was begging to be photographed. Ruchi also provided some background music with her dulcet tones while failing to hit the high tones to whatever song her heart so desired to sing. Bless her.
There were barely any people around either. I think this lies in stark contrast to the crowds that swarm to Pulpit during the summer months. It definitely helped that we were hiking on a week day. I imagine it gets quite busy on a Saturday too, so if you have the opportunity to fly out to Stavanger on a Friday, I’d recommend getting straight to business by driving directly to Pulpit Rock like we did if you have the energy.
Reaching Pulpit Rock
After a little under two hours, we made it to the final uphill stretch, unfolding the almighty fjord views beneath us. The view from the top was mindbogglingly breath-taking, with a panorama of mountains ahead and the Lysefjord snaking past the mountain plateau. It was one of the most beautiful views I’ve ever clapped my eyes upon, and it’s easy to see why this is such a popular hike.
For the thrill-seekers
I’ve been told that I have a death-wish through my love of getting as close to the cliff edge as possible. It drives my boyfriend crazy. He’s always shouting at me not to go any closer and the reasonable part of my brain knows that he’s absolutely right to be cautious but the higher I go, or the closer to the edge I get, the more exhilarating it feels (famous last words, eh?)
Just getting Vas somewhere near the edge of Pulpit Rock was like trying to coax a wild animal into a tuxedo. He was not having any of it, and to be fair, I think it’s important that one of us is reasonable. Safety ought to come before a selfie! But I have no such sense. As soon as I see a cliff, I immediately picture dangling my feet off the edge of it and flinging my arms out like a fledging. Yes, I’m probably foolish, but hey, at least I’m not doing something super crazy and unpredictable like base-jumping off Pulpit Rock (Vas doesn’t see that as a good argument. Ahem).
We spent around 45 minutes at the top of Preikestolen just enjoying the view and uttering the words ‘incredible’, ‘magnificent’ and ‘I wish we had this in the UK’ about twenty times. Every twist and turn was a photo opportunity and I have Ale to thank for the superb photos he took of us all together and of the landscapes.
The view down at the fjord and just the grandeur of the scenery and the impressiveness of this defiant mountain plateau was really something to behold. Pulpit Rock had this rapturous quality to it and at times we just sat back in silence to take it all in.
Hiking back down
The hike back down was just as delightful as the hike up, perhaps even more pleasant because the evening sky was transforming and the whole landscape was glowing. Hello golden hour! Even past 9 pm it was still light and we had the pleasure of seeing the sky transform from hues of light blue to shimmering gold and burning orange .
We passed a couple of people still heading up. Generally, Norwegians are fit so I suspect many of them would be able to hike up and down Pulpit Rock in a couple of hours, but judging by their heavy bags, I think they were planning to camp out for the night which is something I’d love to do one day.
By the time we reached our car at 10: 30pm, it had just become dark. Our timing had been perfect.
Accommodation in Stavanger
I recommend using Stavanger as your based from which to visit Pulpit Rock. It’s a great city with lots of attractions and culinary offerings.
Accommodation options are aplenty, but I can personally recommend Clarion Hotel Stavanger. It’s situated just moments from the picturesque harbour so you have everything you need within walking distance. The hotel is also fitted with all modern comforts and offers a superb buffet breakfast.
If you’d prefer to be out of the city, Sola Strand Hotel provides a coastal retreat just outside Stavanger (and only 2km from the airport). This historic hotel offers comfortable rooms, a private beach, and serene views of the North Sea. Even if you’re not staying here, I suggest strolling along the beach and heading here for lunch. Yum, yum.
Discover more things to do in Stavanger
While hiking Pulpit Rock is my favourite thing to do in Stavanger, there’s still lots more to see and do. Check out my travel guide below:
