Paris and literature go hand in hand like a glass of wine at the end of a long day. Attracted by the early intellectual and literary vigour of the city, artists and writers have made the pilgrimage to Paris throughout the course of history. Many even staying to call it home.
Paris stands as one of the few cities in the world where literature is just as celebrated as its more conventional attractions. Some of the world’s greatest literary pieces were penned here, so it is perhaps no surprise that biblophiles from across the world have lots to discover in the French capital.
Now let’s take a look…
Where: Montparnasse Cemetery
Who: Baudelaire, Beckett, Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir & more
I’m sorry if any of you think a cemetery is a sombre note to begin our literary tour of Paris, but I’ve always found an element of poeticism to wandering around them. While Père Lachaise Cemetery is more famous as the burial home of Oscar Wilde and Jim Morrison, Montparnasse is the final resting place of many writers and intellectual heavyweights.
Visit and pay respect to poet Charles Baudelaire, playwright Samuel Beckett, singer-songwriter Serge Gainsbourg, essayist Susan Sontag and philosophers Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir (who you will find sharing a tombstone).
Finding reading: Inside Montparnasse Cemetery – From Baudelaire To Beckett And Sartre To Sontag
Where: Le Procope
Who: Napoleon Bonaparte, Voltaire, Jean-Jacques Rousseau
Established in 1686, Le Procope was revered as a popular meeting place for intellectuals of the day. The oldest restaurant in Paris, which has been in continuous operation since the 17th century, philosopher and Enlightenment writer Voltaire is said to have consumed 40 cups of coffee a day here. Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Paul Verlaine and Denis Diderot were also regulars, where today guests are greeted by Napoleon Bonaparte’s hat and served traditional French cuisine.
Where: Shakespeare and Company
Who: More than just who’s in the title
Probably the world’s most famous bookshop, Shakespeare and Co is a book lover’s dream. The original ‘Company’ dates back to 1919 and served as a popular stomping ground for the likes of Ernest Hemingway, F. Scott Fitzgerald, T.S Eliot, James Joyce, Gertrude Stein and many more over the years.
More recently, the shop has featured in several popular films, including Before Sunrise by Richard Linklater. In it the protagonist is a writer hoping to attract an old flame by holding a book launch at the shop. I don’t want to give too much away if you haven’t seen it, but like all Linklater films, it’s worth watching.
Inside is filled with both new and antique books, and there are lots of nooks and crannies to while away the hours. All purchased books receive an ink stamp of the iconic shop’s logo inside the front page, so it’s a perfect place to buy a gift for someone – or yourself!
Website: www.shakespeareandcompany.com
Where: Les Deux Magots
Who: Truman Capote, Richard Wright, Ernest Hemingway
One of the oldest cafes in Paris, since opening its doors in the late 1800’s, Deux Magots has played an important role in Parisian cultural life. Its historical reputation is derived from the patronage of famous writers and artists in the past such as Verlaine, Rimbaud, Hemingway, Camus and Picasso. To cement further its strong literary association, Les Deux Magots gives out its own, annual literary prize.
Just doors down from the equally famous, arch rival Cafe de Flore, both locations share impressive former clientele. Notoriously, many writers would favour one over the other, so why not pay a visit to both and see which you prefer?
Where: The Bouquinistes on The Seine Bank
Who: For you, the reader, the bibliophile
Any conjured up visual of the city simply would not be complete without the Seine-side bouquinistes. Well over 200 of these quintessentially French, little, green boxes line the riverside, selling second hand books and journals, with over 900 book shops peppered across Paris.
Stemming from a tradition dating back to the mid 16th century, when people would line the bridges of Paris in an attempt to sell second hand books, today the Bouquinistes sell used books, rare books, journals, postcards, posters and much more. Now a UNESCO world heritage site, these iconic stalls are easy to spot, and have enough cultural value to weather the digital age.
Where: Bar Hemingway, The Ritz
Who: Ernest Hemingway
Rumour has it, Mr Hemingway himself wrote that when he once envisioned heaven, the bar at The Ritz Hotel Paris was what came to his mind. Further to this, Ernest was said to be in Paris when World War II was declared to be over and in celebration he appeared at the bar inside The Ritz with some soldiers, and ordered champagne for everyone. Orson Welles and Truman Capote were also famed residents in the hotel on many occasions, with Marcel Proust writing much of Swann’s Way in the hotel’s very garden.
Before heading here, I should warn that it’s very pricey. If you’re on a budget this place could do serious damage to your wallet so beware!
Where: Maison de Victor Hugo
Who: Victor Hugo
Famed for literary works such as The Hunchback of Notre Dame and Les Miserables, Victor Hugo’s apartment has been transformed into a museum. Showcasing a collection of his works, many of the prolific writer’s personal possessions are also on display, with a lavish room dedicated to his collection of Chinese artwork. Before fleeing to Guernsey to escape political persecution, the celebrated Romantic writer is believed to have penned Ruy Blas here.
Where: Latin Quarter
Who: Victor Hugo, Emile Zola, Jean Jacque Rousseau
From mosaic signatures of intellectuals such as Victor Hugo adorning the walls in Cluny – La Sorbonne, a train station on Line 10 of the Parisian metro system, to the Pantheon atop the Montagne Sainte Genevieve, the Latin Quarter makes for quite an afternoon of exploring. The Pantheon houses the tombs of literary luminaries such as Victor Hugo, Voltaire, Jean Jacques Rousseau, Victor Alexandre Dumas and Emile Zola, with Ernest Hemingway living nearby in 1922. Continue from here to the Jardin du Luxembourg, where Victor Hugo fans will know Cosette met Marius in Les Miserables.
Honourable Mentions
On your literary journey around the City of Light, stop off at Culture Rapide. The epitome of cool, at least as far as literature is concerned, the venue plays host to weekly poetry slamming contests, where aspiring poets read out original works for the pending judgement of others. Every Tuesday evening poetry is in French, whilst English poets get their moment to shine, every second Monday.
Should you be seeking a cocktail in the City of Love, then head to Cafe de la Paix, a stone’s throw from Opera Garnier. Opened in 1862 and declared a significantly important historical site by the French government in 1975, this is definitely one of the more luxurious spots on the literary list of musts in Paris. With some of the best dessert in town, Oscar Wilde, Guy de Maupassant and Emile Zola were all legendary regulars back in the day.
If you survived the tourists at Shakespeare and Company, head to Librairie Galignani, the oldest bookshop in not only Paris and France, but also the whole of Europe. A rather sweet legend has it that the sixth generation Galignani family running the store today will be able to find you anything you are looking for, so why not put them to the test on your literary exploration of Paris?
