The other day I was asked what my favourite city is in Scandinavia, and without little hesitation I replied with Copenhagen. The ease of my reply came as a surprise to myself as usually I find questions like this really difficult to answer. If someone were to ask me what is my favourite country, I don’t think I’d be able to answer without humming and harring, then I’d reel off at least four or five countries.
Anyone who has stepped on the foot of a Norwegian fjord and experienced its tranquillity or been to Svalbard and had their whole vision eclipsed by the sight of a glacier, will know there isn’t a city that comes close to what the nature in this part of the world has to offer. That’s not because there aren’t some great cities in Scandinavia, it’s because the nature is really out of this world, often beyond comprehension.
Where Scandinavian cities are generally quite small; Scandinavian nature is nothing short of imposing. I don’t think I’ve ever been so in awe of Mother Nature until I’d stood by hissing fumaroles in Iceland or watched puffins glide off cliff edges in the Faroe Islands.
So what about Denmark? Well unlike it’s other Nordic neighbours, Denmark is tiny in comparison and doesn’t share the same diversity in nature that Norway, Sweden and Finland have, and which spreads all the way up to the Arctic. So it only seems fair that Copenhagen should be crowned the best city in Scandinavia then, eh? (Though I’m really, really fond of Stockholm too).
The best way to describe the appeal of Copenhagen is by how it makes you feel. It’s more than just a collection of attractions – it’s a feeling. It essentially has a way of showing you how to live a better life, after all, the Danes are perpetually topping the list of the world’s happiest countries. Surely heading there is a way to understand why and how?
Personally I take these kind of lists with a pinch of salt, though I do believe that happiness can be found in a high quality of life which the Danes (and the rest of Scandinavia) aspire all their citizens to have. Obviously no government is perfect, but the Scandinavian model does place a higher emphasis on equality more than most places which does add to a certain amount of peace and safety. Walk around Copenhagen and people simply don’t look as miserable as the city dwellers hoarding onto the London tube like cattle.
It’s difficult not to appreciate how the Danes live their lives (on the surface at least), for example you often see families or a bunch of friends cycling together, this may seem like something small, but there’s no way you’d find parents doing the school run on a bicycle in the UK – it’s an aberration if you do! Doing this as part of a daily commute – which so many do – obviously has a positive impact on health, energy and mood, least not forgetting the environment.
Honestly, I reckon Copenhagen is inadvertently one of the biggest marketing tools for UK bike companies, even if they don’t know it! I bet countless visitors have returned home and purchased a bike through sheer inspiration.
Although it’s a capital city, Copenhagen manages to have the peacefulness of a small, seaside town, BUT it still manages to rival most major cities for things to see and do. I’m not sure how it does it, maybe it’s the lack of cars and the people don’t seem to be manically burning the midnight oil (most workplaces in Scandinavia don’t impose strict dress codes like you’d find in Canary Wharf so this adds to the picture).
Another thing about the people – and you’ll notice this everywhere you go – is just how gorgeous they are. On top of their natural good looks they are effortlessly chic too. Initially I was somewhat baffled by this but have come to realise it’s part of their DNA. I suspect it’s demoralising for most visitors, myself included, but don’t worry, it makes window shopping all the more enjoyable. Every cloud… silver lining…
Finally, I can’t write about Copenhagen without talking about the food. They say a way to a person’s heart is through their stomach and that’s probably why Copenhagen has a way of getting into your heart. Good doesn’t even begin to describe it. Even the simplest set of ingredients can leave you speechless and yearning for more.
There are numerous places to go for food, you can keep the costs down my heading to Tovehallerne Food Market and try a variety of local and fresh dishes, I think a Smörgåsbord is a must, or you could head to the meat packing district which is pretty hipsterish but you’ll find some fantastic restaurants. Don’t worry about the name, it might be called the meat packing district in homage to its heritage, but in reality you’ll find all restaurants have vegetarian dishes on their menu. Though if you’re looking specifically for veggie restaurants check out this list here.
For those of you who have some extra kroner to treat yourself, then Noma is a no-brainer, but remember you have to book months in advance. Other restaurants that come highly recommended are Geranium and Amass.
Alternatively, and I know this is a bit disloyal to Copenhagen but you could cross over the Öresund bridge to Skåne in South Sweden (less than 45 minutes away) and you’ll be in foodie heaven. You can either head to Malmö or out to the countryside if you have a car for some superb places to eat. You’ll find lots of organic farm shops that specialise in locally grown produce. For fika you should make your way to Olof Viktors because it’s super pretty inside and out.
I stayed over at a Clarion hotel and ate at its restaurant, Table & Kitchen, whose menu has been created by famed chef Marcus Samuelsson. I chose a veggie plate of bhajis with vine tomatoes, lightly floured and fried broccoli, humous and bulgur wheat salad!
Oh geez, now look where I am? I wish I’d never written this blog about Copenhagen, I’m filled with wanderlust, hungry and pining for Nordic flavours!
Must. Go. Seek. Food.