You simply cannot go to Osaka without seeing the bright neon lights of Dotonbori. Located in the Namba district, it’s one of the city’s most famous areas.
‘Dotonbori’ generally refers both to the Dotonbori Canal and to Dotonbori Street which runs parallel to the canal’s southern bank.
As soon as you reach the main street, you’re hit with a barrage of neon signs and eye-catching shop fronts. This includes a ginormous plastic crab that gyrates while hanging from a restaurant. As startling as it is amusing, you soon realise this is one area of town that lives by the motto ‘bigger is better’.
Famous for its cacophony of sights, smells and sounds, bellowing out onto the street from brightly-lit shops. You’ll experience aromatic food, intense flashing lights, and mind-blogging billboards. There’s nothing at all understated about Dotonbori. This in-your-face attitude could easily induce a headache, but the fun and chaos of it all makes any drawbacks totally worth it.
Dotonbori: A true sensory overload
If I hadn’t already made myself clear, this place isn’t somewhere to go for peace and quiet. On the contrary. It’s where you go to completely submerge yourself inside a Japanese madhouse.
The further you walk down Dotonbori arcade, more and more restaurants and shops each with their own flashing 3D billboards compete for your attention.
It’s then that I’m reminded of the words I read in my guidebook, ‘… a strip of restaurants and theatres where a peculiar type of Darwinism is the rule for both people and shops: survival of the flashiest’.
These words couldn’t be any truer!
I made a friend... well, sort of.
Initially overwhelmed by the wave of people walking towards me, I chose to linger to one side so I could soak in the atmosphere and take a few photos.
Seeing large groups of friends and couples made me to feel acutely aware of my own self, being all alone. I wanted to share the experience of being in Dotonbori with someone else. Inside I was filled with wanderlust, excited by the smells, sounds, and noises. All I wanted to do was have someone with me so we could point and laugh at everything this neon jungle had in store.
However, I didn’t have to wait long until I was approached by an old friendly Japanese man who was curious to know where I had come from.
Despite his age he still had a youthful twinkle in his eye, though I’m hasten to acknowledge that he spoke to me with a can of beer in his hand, so I can’t be sure whether or not that twinkle was actually a state of drunken bliss!
Either way he appeared harmless and I felt inclined to speak to someone, so it wouldn’t be an entirely bad idea to hang out with him.
Between taking sips from his can, he attempted to sing an English song which to this day I have no idea what it was but pretended I knew because it seemed to make him happy. He was so cute.
After a short while I began to crave my own company again so made my excuse before leaving him on a bench to swig back another newly opened can of beer.
Hopefully I wasn’t the only person serenaded by his voice that night…
Sampling the food at Dotonbori
Osaka is famous for its food – often dubbed the foodie capital of Japan. In fact, the area gave rise to the term ‘Kuidaore’, meaning ‘eat till you drop’.
I tried Takoyaki, these are batter balls filled with diced octopus. Now, that doesn’t sound too appetising but Osaka is famous for them so I had to try the dish for myself. While yummy, the guy sprinkled far too much spring onion across the top so I couldn’t really distinguish the taste too well…. my advice is get it without!
One of my favourite aspects about soaking up the sights, was watching them skilfully prepare and cook the food. Most shops and stalls specialised in one dish, so they were able to prepare the dishes with such impressive ease and efficiency.
After I had walked the length of breadth of Dotonbori, it was time to sit down. I read reviews of nearby restaurants, and stumbled across Tempura Tarojiro. As the name suggests, it specialises in tempura. The reviews were glowing, and it was exactly what I was in the mood for. I love tempura!
Well, let me tell you. This place does not disappoint. I sat down and watched a variety of seafood, meat, and vegetables, sizzling away in deep fried oil. Yes, it’s not exactly what you call healthy, but oh boy, was it delicious! The best tempura I had in Japan – and that’s saying something. If you have the chance, I definitely recommend you go.
On a similar note to Dotonbori, I recommend Shinsekai which is less visited and crowded and has more of a retro feel by contrast.
Fancy a food tour of Dotonbori and beyond?
If you want to experience the full tastes and flavours of Dotonbori and beyond, a food tour with a local expert might be just what you’re looking for! Click on the tours below for more information.
Where to stay in Osaka
There are thousand of hotels to choose from in Osaka. If you’re looking to treat yourself then I recommend Konjaku-So Osaka Castle South. Located in a quiet area, this stylish inn feels like an oasis away from the city. Rooms are equipped with a small garden and an outdoor sheltered bathtub. Perfect after a long day of sightseeing.
If you’re looking for something more affordable with great accessibility, I recommend choosing one within the Umeda area. Hotel Dans Le Coeur is a recent opening, close to Osaka station, but without the loud noise of traffic and trains.
Travelling to Japan and want more inspiration?
10 Responses
The streets felt somewhat like Shinjuku, although I’m sure both have their own special character. I was so shocked and absolutely dazed when I saw those bright lights and over the top, in-your-face banners. It was nothing like what I’m used to in KL and Singapore.
You’re right, very reminiscent of Shinjuku, and I completely agree with you about KL, Singapore and even Hong Kong – though these places have a lot of skyscapers and neon lights, none are weird or bizarre!
This sounds completely mental, I think I’d love it!!! Amazingly vibrant photos, thank-you for the inspiration. 🙂
Japan is both peaceful and mental, you’ve got to see them both! 🙂
I like those huge plastic sculptures above each restaurant. Also, it seems than every city has its drunk twinkle man, even in Japan.
Those plastic sculptures and wacky billboards are awesome, huh?!
Ha, if the balance is right, some drunks can be very endearing 😉
Whaaaa! – Camden High St. on steroids
Haha that’s a way to describe it!
Am I attracted to the bright lights? Oh certainly! And the strangeness of it all. And the food! Yes, the food!
We have a festival in Berlin called the Berlinale Film Festival which I go to every year! Anyway, this year, they had a film from Korea that followed a young girl from a village to her life in the big city as an aspiring “it” girl. It didn’t work & she met all these undesirables. Rather than robbing her of all her belongings, they helped her to became a famous chef instead! The food porn on that film was amazing and so, so funny LOL!
Glad to hear you are lured in by bright lights, strange things and food. Dotonbori should be a treat for you then!
Ooou what was that film called?? I want to watch it based upon your description!