Easily one of the most exciting and appealing cities in South America, Buenos Aires combines elegant European influences with plenty of Latin atmosphere.
The city has a wealth of attractions, from art, culture, cuisine, and dance performances. I had the pleasure of exploring many of them and I’d love to share them with you, particularly if you’re interested in visiting Buenos for yourself.
I travelled to Buenos Aires with two friends, and one of them, Pedro, hails from the city. This proved to be particularly great because you could say I had my own personal tour guide!
Where to stay in Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires offers a wide range of neighbourhoods to stay in, each with its own unique character and attractions. Here are some of the best areas to stay in Downtown, along with hotel recommendations:
Palermo
- Why Stay Here: I stayed in Palermo and I absolutely loved it. The streets awash with street art and independent shops. Described as hipsterish, but not in an over-the-top way. It’s a great place to stay if you like your bars and restaurants to stay open late.
- Hotel Recommendation: As the name suggests, Home Hotel this inviting boutique hotel makes you feel as relaxed and staying at your own home – but complete with touches of luxury to make you feel like you’re on holiday.
Recoleta
- Why Stay Here: Recoleta is known for its elegance, upscale ambiance, and beautiful architecture. It’s home to the famous Recoleta Cemetery, upscale shops, art galleries, and museums. Recoleta has a similar feel to Paris which is an excellent choice for those who appreciate a more intimate setting.
- Hotel Recommendation: If you want to stay in Recoleta, it’s probably a good guess to assume the you like a touch an elegance and luxury. Alvear Palace Hotel is and iconic hotel offering a classic Buenos Aires experience.
San Telmo
- Why Stay Here: San Telmo is Buenos Aires’ oldest neighborhood, known for its historic architecture, cobbled streets, vintage shops and vibrant Sunday market at Plaza Dorrego. San Telmo accommodation can be distinctly cheaper than in other neighbourhoods close to the centre, so for budget travellers, this is a great location.
- Hotel Recommendation: Hotel Madero borders San Telmo and the modern neighbourhood of Puerto Madero. Situated with scenic views across the historic docklands which has been recently revamped. This contemporary hotel with waterfront views is great if you enjoy scenic walks by the water.
How to spend 3 days in Buenos Aires
I think Buenos Aires requires a whole lot longer than staying 72 hours. However, these are the things you shouldn’t miss you’re squeezed for time.
Day 1 - Soho Palermo, famous landmarks & tango
Morning: Soak up the vibrant streets of Soho Palermo
Kick-start your exploration in Soho Palermo where the streets are alive with colourful murals, cool shops and countless cafes. This up-beat neighbourhood wouldn’t feel out of place in a European city like Berlin, London or Amsterdam, but with a punch of South American flair, the atmosphere is even better, I dare say.
Before leaving Palermo, enjoy a scrumptious lunch at El Preferido de Palermo, a beautiful restaurant with pink-washed walls serving traditional dishes like milanesa and fainá. You don’t have to worry about tiny portions – no one comes to Buenos Aires trying to lose weight so don’t even bother trying!
Afternoon: Plaza de Mayo
Time for the big monuments starting with the iconic Plaza de Mayo. This main square is home to so much history and so many iconic Argentina landmarks including the Metropolitan Cathedral where José de San Martín is buried. San Martín is considered a national hero of Argentina and Peru, and one of the Liberators of Spanish South America.
In the square is also Casa Rosada (Pink House), the star of the show. The pink government house is famous for Madonna singing “Don’t Cry for Me Argentina” from its main balcony during her depiction of the First Lady in the film Evita. It is open for guided tours on Saturdays.
Late afternoon: Immerse yourself in art
Fans of art will not be disappointed in Buenos Aires, and MALBA is the place to get your fix. It has a large contemporary collection comprising of paintings, photography, sculptures and installations from all over Latin America including pieces by Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, and international artists such as Louise Bourgeois and Lucio Fantana.
If your tastes are more classical, then Bella Artes might be the better choice for you. Masters such as van Gogh, El Greco, Monet, Picasso, and a panorama of Argentine art are here on display. What’s more is the free entry to appease those on a budget.
Evening: A night of tango
You can’t come to Buenos Aires without attending a tango show. It would be like going to Cuba and missing live salsa.
I once read that ‘Dancing is creating a sculpture that is visible only for a moment’ and this is especially true for Tango. It truly is an art form that one shouldn’t miss on in Buenos Aires. Tango clubs and bars are tightly woven into the tapestry of Argentine life and culture.
For a rather decadent affair, I opted to see a Tango show at the beautiful theatre of Galería Güemesis, a famous spot to experience quintessential tango. And if you’re feeling brave you can hit one of the clubs and try it for yourself afterwards – just remember, confidence is key!
If you’re looking for the full works, take a look at these bookable shows that also include dinner:
Day 2 - Visit the Botanical Gardens, a famous bookshop and Recoleta Cemetery
Morning: Stroll around the Botanical Gardens
After hitting the big landmarks yesterday, it’s time to soak up some tranquility. There are a number of charming green spaces but the botanical gardens in Palermo is among the best with its exotic flowers and Japanese Garden. A bit further out, the Barrancas de Belgrano offer excellent paths for jogging, relaxing, or people-watching. Close by you’ll also find Galileo Galilei planetarium, looking like a UFO ship, it’s one of the city’s most unique designs and superbly fit for studying our solar system.
Afternoon: Pitstop at Ateneo Grand Splendid bookshop & a visit to Recoleta Cemetery
As the famed Argentinean writer, Jorge Borges once said, ‘I have always imagined that Paradise will be a kind of library’ and Ateneo Grand Splendid bookshop is certainly a paradise to speak of. Book lovers will be catapulted into a world of hollywood glamour, as soon as they step foot inside this former theatre turned bookshop.
Considered one of the world’s most beautiful cemeteries, 2nd only to Père Lechaise in Paris, Recoleta Cemetery is filled with fascinating stories from bygone years and unforgettable architecture and art, deservedly placing it on the top of any Buenos Aires itinerary.
The final resting place of Eva Perón and many of Argentina’s wealthiest and most famous families, you can see this reflected in the size and ornate construction of the tombs.
Further reading: Tales from Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires.
Late Afternoon: The Evita Museum
Evening: River walk & dinner
Day 3 - La Boca & San Telmo
Morning: Capture the colours of La Boca
Most of the photos you’ve seen of Buenos Aires in magazines and guide books, were probably of La Boca. This part of the city gets really colourful, making people flock to get those Insta shots. But this means it’s also the most touristy neighbourhood in Buenos Aires so bear this in mind by going early in the day.
To be honest, I’m in two minds about adding the La Boca area of Buenos Aires to this 3-day itinerary because it wasn’t my favourite place purely because it felt a little too touristy. This being said, it looks completely different to anywhere else so I’m going to include it.
History
In its early beginnings, La Boca is where many dock workers and many immigrants called home and because they were so poor they had to be resourceful when building their homes.
Wealthy families fled to the northern suburbs during the yellow fever outbreak in the 1700’s. Less fortunate families were left behind in southern neighborhoods like La Boca.
You’ll see many houses built from cast-away shipping materials such as planks and corrugated sheet metal. Houses were also painted with leftover paints and when there wasn’t enough paint of the same colour to cover the entire house, they would use any colour available which has resulted in the patchwork facade you still see today.
How to get to La Boca
The easiest way is by taxi because La Boca is far south of the city, so hail a cab on the street or use Uber or Cabify. I got an uber and it took about 50 minutes, but was surprisingly cheap.
What to do in La Boca
It’s all about wandering around the colourful buildings that present themselves like open-air museums. Take a stroll on the few blocks that make up the Caminito, taking photos of the multi-coloured walls and tango dancers.
You can even take your own tango photo with one of the performers for a small price. I didn’t myself, but they do make for a fun and cheesy souvenir if you’re willing to part with your money.
Lots of former homes have now been turned into restaurants and souvenir shops which make it great place to buy things for friends and family. I spotted lots of tributes to Argentinian icon Madonna – if you have a football obsessed friend, here is a great place to buy them a key ring! Of course, you’ll also find Messi emblazoned on t-shirts and souvenirs too. These guys are virtually Gods in Argentina.
Must try: If you’re looking for a true Argentinean treat, buy a box of alfajores. These are melt-in-the-mouth shortbread-like cookies filled with dulce de leche. No description does them justice, you just have to try them!
Afternoon: Vintage shops and foodie treats at San Telmo
Enjoy shopping? Every Sunday a flea market takes place in San Telmo. However, any day of the week there are still an array of vintage shops to whittle away the hours, selling anything from retro furniture to vintage clothing.
I ended up treating myself to two dresses at a beautiful shop called Gil Antiguedades located by the main square. I’m not going to lie, it was quite pricey, but you only live once, eh? I still wear one of the them all the time so I consider it money well spent. It’s my go-to dress for most occasions, and every time I wear it I’m reminded of my trip to Buenos Aires which always makes me smile.
One of the best places to see outdoor Tango is Plaza Dorrego, San Telmo’s main square. Take a seat at one of the coffee shops and enjoy a dazzling performance from the pros. Make sure to show your appreciation by giving them a tip.
Evening: Steak on the menu & drinks
In the evening, spouse up and head back out to where you began: Soho Palmero. Here you can find several of the best steak houses in the city, I recommend Calden del Soho or Lo De Jesus. Then finish up with some fancy cocktails to celebrate your final night in what is easily one of the world’s best cities.
Explore more of Argentina
If you’re heading to Argentina and want to read more about what to see and do, check out these blog posts for more recommendations:
