This was my first trip outside of London since lockdown began and I marked the occasion with the 10-mile coastal walk from Dover to Deal which takes you across cliff tops, meadows, pretty villages and beaches.
In very British style, it was rather windy and foggy and it rained occasionally, but after being cooped up in my flat for so long, this kind of weather felt truly reinvigorating and provided the prefect antidote for my nature-deprived soul.
Come rain, wind or shine, this walking route offers spectacular scenery, among the very best in Britain dare I say. You really can’t predict the weather, so it’s pointless waiting for the ‘perfect day’, my advice is to just do it!
During the walk from Dover to Deal there are several highlights and landmarks that I’ll go through in this guide:
- Marvel at the famous White Cliffs of Dover as they unfurl before you.
- Visit the South Foreland Lighthouse
- Enter the scenic village of St Margaret’s Bay, home to the Pine Gardens Museum & Tea Room and a secluded bay.
- Continue pass cliffs and meadows to the village of Kingsdown, passing along the beach before arriving in the picturesque town of Deal, home to Walmar Castle.
Dover to Deal facts & figures
How to get there: Direct trains run from London St Pancras to Dover. The fast train takes approximately 1h 20min. I bought a return ticket from Dover since I was sleeping overnight in Dover but if you’re going for a day trip, buy a return from Deal and get off the train at Dover to start your hike.
→ Book your train tickets in advance via Trainline
Distance: 10ish miles / 16 km
Duration of walk: Approx 4 hours
Difficulty: Easy to Medium. There is an ascent at the beginning but the rest of the route is quite flat with a short ascent in and out of St Margaret’s.
Terrain: Footpaths are well maintained and signposted. You must keep a safe distance from the chalk cliffs due to recent erosion.
From the station to the cliff top
From the station follow signposts to the centre and make your way to the seafront promenade towards the national trail.
The White Cliffs of Dover will begin to creep into vision so rest assured you’re heading in the right direction. You will pass views of Dover Castle before reaching a residential road directly under the cliffs with a row of cute coloured-houses sitting beneath it. Follow the road around and you will find a narrow flight of steps. Climb the steps to reach the cliff top and visitor centre.
Walking along the White Cliffs of Dover
At the top enjoy cool views of Dover port which is the biggest ferry port in Europe due to its proximity to the Continent. Evidence reveals the origins of the port can be traced back as far as the Roman times.
The pièce de résistance is, of course, the startling white cliffs facing the Strait of Dover and France.
This section is the narrowest part of the England Channel, and occasionally you’ll get hardcore swimmers crossing over to France for charity. Speaking of which, on a clear day you’re supposed to be able to see France but the visibly was poor on the day of my walk. You can’t have everything, eh?
I expected to see a lot more people, but there were only a few other walkers. I suspect on a sunny day this won’t be the case which is another reason why I recommend walking to Deal even if the weather isn’t spectacular.
Plus, the low-slung clouds make the landscape look incredibly cinematic too. There’s a wildness and ruggedness to appreciate that you just don’t get when its bright and sunny.
The further you walk, the smaller the gravel path gets until you’re walking on narrow tracks taking you along the cliffs to your right and undulating countryside to your left.
South Foreland Lighthouse
It takes approximately two miles to reach the South Foreland Lighthouse from the Visitor Centre. Most people turn back to Dover when they reach it so it gets even less busy from this point.
The Victorian lighthouse was built in 1846 to provide safe passage for ships until it was decommissioned on 30th September 1988. During its 142 years of service the lighthouse stood witness to and withstood a wealth of history, including two World Wars.
Usually the lighthouse is open and you get climb to the balcony for an uninterrupted view of the cliffs and across the Channel. However, it was closed due to Covid-19 so I didn’t get to experience this unfortunately.
St. Margaret's Bay
It didn’t take long to walk to the next stop, St. Margret’s Bay, passing first the small village which is home what appears to be a lovely nice tea room and gardens but like the lighthouse, it was still closed until further notice. Follow the signposts that will take you down to St Margaret’s Bay.
You will find yourself in a secluded bay surrounded by cliffs and outlined by colourful beach huts. If you’re looking for a pint there’s a pub overlooking the sea called Coast Guard on-the-bay. Instead of a beer I stopped for a yummy and very creamy ice-cream which was just the sugar-kick I needed before taking the steep steps back up the cliffs.
Walk to Kingsdown
The walk from St. Margaret’s to Kingsdown is beautiful and the most peaceful part of the walk, I only saw a handful of people walking with their dogs and who I presumed were locals.
At the beginning of this section is Dover Patrol Memorial, a large stone obelisk in memory of the Dover Patrol of 1914-19 and subsequent lives lost in the Second World War. Here also marks the mid-way point of the walk.
The area along this part of the walk is really wide and open with fields of green and gold and pretty flora and fauna to the left, and then open ocean to the right. I don’t think there’s a more optimal condition for an invigorating walk than feeling the ocean breeze.
After descending down a narrow path, you will reach the coastal village of Kingsdown seafront.
Kingsdown to Deal
Not too far to go now. You’re probably tired so rest your feet and admire the views or head to the Zetland Arms for a refreshing drink.
It’s only a small village, but there are some lovely houses which I imagine are popular for people who have retired or can afford the luxury of a second home. Instead of walking on the pebble beach, I took the walking path called Wellington Parade so I could admire all the lovely mansions and wistfully dream of living by the sea. Which, unless I sell my kidney on the black market, there’s zero chance of it happening.
Before reaching Deal you will pass Walmer Castle which I recommend exploring if you have time.
Soon enough you will come to the finish line where a plethora of quaint streets, shops and lovely restaurants await.
Where to stay: Dover or Deal?
I have stayed in both places and I recommend staying in Deal. While Dover is bigger and Dover Castle is absolutely stunning, the city itself is nowhere near as charming as Deal. Plus Deal has a lovely selection of restaurants and pubs, which is exactly what you’ll want after a long hike!
For comfort and cosiness, I recommend a night at The Rose. You can’t beat the location and it strikes the perfect balance between modern and old English charm. It serves up delicious grub too.
Are you planning a walking trip in the UK?
If you’re looking for more inspiration for walking routes along the Kent and Sussex coastline, check out these posts:
2 Responses
It’s Walmer not Walmar Castle. The tearoom is well worth a stop but in normal times closes at 4pm even in summer.
There used to be the Royal Marines School of Music located in Deal but was attacked by a bomb and shortly thereafter
the school was closed.