For the love of walking
One of the positive things that I have taken away from all the travel restrictions over the last two years, is a new appreciation of the outdoors. In particular, walking. I’ve always enjoyed walking to an extent, but I mean walking for walking’s sake. The more I do it, the better I feel.
I know I’m not the only person whose passions and hobbies have changed to adapt to the changes in the world. And what’s a more perfect antidote to those long monotonous spells of staying in doors, than the simple pleasure of walking?
Even with international travel restrictions getting back to normal, I have made a promise to myself to keep up with this simple act of moving one foot in front of the other. Whether it’s just an aimless stroll around one of the parks in East London, exploring the UK coastline, or doing something bigger like the Camino de Santiago (I did a section of it last year which I’m still yet to write about), I feel happier when I’m moving my feet. Walking is not just a way for me to explore my physical surroundings, but a place to organise my thoughts or simply, be free from them.
One of my favourite walks that provides both coastal and countryside views, is the 19 km route from Rye to Hastings along the wonderful East Sussex coast, and I want to share it with you.
Walk from Rye to Hastings - Facts & Figures
How to get there: The train from London St Pancras to Rye via Ashford International takes an hour and ten minutes, which is quick enough for a day trip if you don’t have time for an overnight stay in Hastings.
→ Book your train tickets in advance via Trainline
Distance: 11.5 miles / 20 km Approx
Duration of walk: Approx 4.5 – 5 hours (which includes stopping for food and photos)
Difficulty: Easy to Medium. It’s a bit hilly at times, but it’s just the duration that makes it more challenging.
Rye: Pirates, Smugglers, and Seafarers
After we hopped off the train we strolled around Rye for a little while but since we had both already previously visited the town on a separate trip, we decided to press on because we were running behind schedule. Rye is one of the most picturesque little seaside towns in England and has a rich history of pirates, privateers, smugglers, and seafarers.
If you want to know more, you can read all about it here: Rye & Camber Sands – a Day Trip From London by Train.
Winchelsea Beach
From the centre of Rye we made our way along the roadside and after a while we found ourselves trudging over marshlands, crossing little streams with wooden footbridges and planks. The weather was drizzling and I was praying it would improve.
However, soon enough we ended up at the small town of Winchelsea. We followed signs that led to a wide shingle beach and a narrow walk-way along the sea bank. I glanced back towards Rye Harbour, and figure we probably could have walked along the coast after all!
Along the beach we spotted a rather inviting cafe. Even though we still had a long way to go until Hastings, perhaps another 3.5-hours, we figured a plate of good ol’ British fish and chips would provide us with the fuel we needed to persist on, and as much give warmth to my hands which had turned a deep shade of pink against the sea breeze.
Sea Views Along the Promenade Walk
Now feeling infinitely warmer and fuller, we carried on walking between the wide open sea on one side and picturesque grassland on the other. In the distance, I could see a cliff edge and figured that’s where we needed to be next.
Immediately to my right, a row of stark, modern houses came into view. Large windows stretched almost the entire length and width of the buildings. One in particular looked more like an art gallery. A house with white walls, modern furniture, and filled with contemporary art.
The owners must have paid a premium for such a large space overlooking the sea. I did my usual habit of wondering what the owners must do for a living to be able to afford a place like that… A retired footballer? An art collector? A banker’s holiday home?
Once I reached the bottom of the cliff edge at a place called ‘Pett Level /Cliff End‘ I expected to find a flight of stairs going up to the top but there wasn’t one. It was a dead-end. Fortunately, the sun was starting to break through the clouds so I sat down to enjoy the view and soak up the first real rays of sunshine.
I retraced my steps and joined the road. After a short while, I found a footpath off to the left. The footpath led upwards and marked the beginning of walking along the cliffs tops.
Narrow Paths at Cliff End & Fairlight Cove
We walked through Pett Village and saw a narrow footpath that said Fairlight Hastings, so we followed this path. I wasn’t exactly sure if this was the correct path, but it was my favourite part of the trip.
I spotted several quaint and beautiful homes with thatched roofs. They were in complete contrast to the modern homes along the promenade but equally impressive in different ways. I especially loved how they were tucked away and surrounded by perfect picketed fences.
After reaching the top, we walked along the side of fields and there wasn’t a single person in sight. I could see the base of the cliff at an area called Fairlight Cove. It almost looked as though the cliff has been quarried here. But, in fact, the cliff has crumbled into the sea (the coast moving 100m inland in the past 100 years) and attempts have been made to pile earth and rocks at the base to protect against further erosion.
Final Pit Stop: Hastings
Somewhere between Fairlight Cove and Hastings, we ended coming off the cliff tops and into a myriad of small, charming villages and countryside parks. I didn’t mind the detour. It allowed me to envisage escaping London for life in the countryside. This is something I find myself dreaming about a lot of late.
Some of the houses were stunning. I fell in love with another thatched cottaged. Maybe I’ll retire here one day?
By the time we reached Hastings, it was very late afternoon. Our legs were tired so we dropped off our bags at the hotel before shimmying back out to explore the city’s culinary offerings, to which I have one word to add: SEAFOOD.
Head over to White’s Seafood Restaurant, you’ll be in for a treat. The seafood tasted like it had just come straight out from the sea!
In the morning, the sun was out so we darted to the pier. Seagulls were flapping around, the sun was bouncing off the water and turning it silver, colourful beach huts lined the shore and families were frolicking across the sand. It wasn’t even summer yet, but it certainly felt like it.
Where to stay in Rye or Hastings
There are plenty of accommodation options in Rye and Hastings. You could spend a night in each, or you could stick to one place. If you are short on time and need to chose between the two, I think Rye is more charming and has a more intimate and relaxing atmosphere overall.
In rye I stayed at the lovely Whitehouse Rye which is located in the heart of the town on the main High Street. The hotel is situated inside a stunning Grade II listed Georgian building and the interior design is tastefully decorated with original and modern features to offer a stylish, light and airy atmosphere. The breakfast is superb and if that’s not enough, there is a bakery which offers scrumptious treats to accompany any long or short coast walk.
