Charyn Canyon initially caught my attention after reading about its uncanny resemblance to the Grand Canyon in the US state of Arizona.
Affectionately dubbed its ‘little brother’, I was keen to see whether it lived up to the hype or whether it should be written off as an overzealous marketing campaign intended to bolster up the country’s appeal to foreigners.
Located close to the Chinese Border roughly 220 kilometres east of Almaty, Charyn Canyon is nestled in the eponymous Charyn Canyon National Park at around 3.5 hour’s drive from the former capital’s city centre. Along with Kolsai Lakes and Altyn-Emel National Park, it is part of Kazakhstan’s famous Golden Triangle.
Strolling through the Valley of Castles
When I pulled up in the car park, the first thing I delighted in was the lack of people. How was it possible that one of the country’s major tourist attractions had so few people clamouring to get inside? Had this been in the UK, there would be an insufferable queue just to edge the wheels inside the car park. Then I remembered the fact that Kazakhstan is the 9th largest country in the world yet one of the least densely populated and touristy.
After paying the small entrance fee, of approximately $2 I followed the steep path down to the Valley of Castles. Once on even ground, I turned the palms of my hands to face the cloudless, blue sky, lifted my head back to feel the sun on my face and paused to savour the moment of arriving at my destination. Slowly, I turned 360 degrees to take in the magnitude and exceptional visions that unfolded around me. I was exactly where I wanted to be – sandwiched between some big ‘ol rocks etched and shaped by geological processes over millions of years.
As I strolled down the 3-kilometre dusty trail flanked by endless canyons, memories of walking through the long Siq leading to the Treasury in Petra came flooding back to the me. These two experiences feed the imagination. They both conjure up the same sense of wonder, adventure and anticipation.
But wait, wasn’t I supposed to be reminded of the Grand Canyon? That’s right. It did look impressively like its US counterpart, but the feeling this place gave me felt wholly more unique.
Without the distraction of pushing through crowds and sharing this natural wonder with scores of people donning fanny packs and microphones, I had the entire place to myself. Well, this was almost true except for a couple of people here and there.
I was able to blissfully stop, touch, and climb everything and anything I desired within reasonable safety. My inner child was fully unleashed with a bucketful of sand and excitement.
The more I looked in detail at the various rocks and pillars, the more they seemingly came to life before me. Resembling figures and animals, somewhat like an open-air museum filled with ancient sculptures. It seemed apt that this path within Charyn Canyon had been given the name ‘The Valley of Castles’. Nature itself for many millions of years has honed the canyon rocks into fancy fairy-tale forms of ancient castles. I even spotted one rock formation in particular that looked like a princess sitting on her royal chair.
There are a few legends bestowed upon the canyon. Some people believe that it was a place haunted by spirits who didn’t like to be disturbed by the living. A part of me empathised with these spirits; sometimes being at peace, is to be alone.
Cooling off at the Charyn River
Awaiting me at the end of the path was a cool breeze from the rapidly flowing Charyn River. It was an unusually bright shade of green and the sun reflected off the surface creating ripples of gold and silver as the current moved with surprising speed and force. I perched on the side of the riverbank, dangling my feet in the water until it reached my ankles, and later, feeling adventurous, climbed up a tree branch that hovered above the river and laid there for a while under the sun.
I could have stayed by the river for hours, listening to the grass rustle and the waters tussle over the rocks, but I made my way back up the path to the beginning, finding more anthropomorphic shapes in the canyon that I had previously missed.
Walking along the top of the Canyon
It wasn’t quite time to head back to Almaty yet, next up was walking along the top of the Canyon. This vantage point really brought home the sheer scale of Charyn Canyon, stretching over 50 kilometres long and as deep as 350 metres. Deeply engraved in the vast Kazakh steppe, these time-worn canyons really did look exactly like the famous postcards you see of the Grand Canyon. I’m certain if I told people that’s where I was, I suspect nobody would have guessed otherwise.
While writing up this article, I also stumbled across this advert for Land Rover that was filmed at none other than Charyn Canyon. Now I’ve seen it, I regret not taking my drone!
Join a tour of Charyn Canyon
If you want to make things easier for yourself, and meet some people along the way, join one of these guided tours.
Where to stay
I used Almaty as my base and set off early to explore Charyn Canyon on a day trip. Almaty is an incredible city with so much to see and do. It’s a very international city with lots of museums, cafes, restaurants and hotels.
I stayed at Park Hotel Almaty which I found really good value considering the size and comfort of the hotel. The only downside is that it’s located on the side of a road, but once you’re inside, it’s very quiet. The rooms are very spacious, comfortable and clean. It’s also easy to walk to lots of the main attractions and restaurants.
You might also like: Visit Fairy Tale Canyon (Skazka) in Kyrgyzstan
What are your thoughts on Charyn Canyon? Would you like to visit?
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2 Responses
Never knew Kazakhstan have it’s own grand canyon! Would definitely love to visit this someday! Was it hard climbing up those rocks?
Hello! Glad you have discovered the existence of Charyn Canyon and wish to go someday! No, the path is easy to follow and doesn’t require much in the way of fitness 🙂