During a recent trip to India, I experienced one of the most intense multi-sensory events of my life that encapsulated everything I find fascinating about India: Ganga Aarti in Haridwar.
Lying at the heart of Haridwar, Ganga Aarti is a mesmerising religious ceremony that gives praise to the River Goddess of Ganga, occurring every day as dusk descends over the holy city.
Devotees of Hinduism from across the globe, and curious travellers alike, gather to revel in this age-old ritual held on the sacred banks of the River Ganges. A symphony of fire, water, and almighty devotion that has the power to catapult you into a completely different dimension entirely.
The Spiritual Heart of Haridwar
Haridwar is a special place being one of India’s 7 holy cities, and only second to Varanasi, it is the most popular place to watch the Ganga Aarti unfold.
Haridwar has long been a hub of spiritual and religious fervour. Nestled at the feet of the Himalayas, the city is believed to be a gateway to the divine.
In Sanskrit, the ancient language of Hinduism, Hari means ‘Vishnu’ (the God of preservation and protector of the universe), while dwar means ‘gateway’. So, Haridwar poetically translates to ‘The Gateway to Vishnu’.
The Ganga Aarti takes place at Har Ki Pauri, a famous ghat meaning the’ feet of Lord Vishnu’, located in the heart of Haridwar. It is believed that it is the precise spot where the Ganga leaves the mountains and enters the plains. Har Ki Pauri embodies the essence of devotion, faith, and the eternal bond between mortal humans and the sacred river.
From the moment I read and saw photos of the ceremony, I felt a strong desire to experience it for myself, but no amount of written words or images prepared me for being there to witness the spectacle in flesh.
It’s a moment when any ordinariness ceases to exist and is quickly replaced by a realm of resplendent colours and spiritual chants echoing through the atmosphere.
Anticipation before the ceremony begins
Hours before the ceremony began, a sense of anticipation buzzed through the air in preparation. As I stood from the sidelines, hundreds of devotees stepped down to soak in the Ganga, the hardy of whom rapidly plunged their head in and out of the holy water like a yo-yo, and the hardiest I saw repeatedly scooped up handfuls of the Ganga to drink.
That’s brave I thought to myself. A part of me wished I didn’t know or cared about it being the world’s most polluted river. I’d jump straight in with my legs akimbo. Instead I dipped my feet in and wondered if my meek attempt would still count for anything.
I whipped out my little pocket mirror to see the imprinted symbol of a trident representing the triple aspects of god – creation, protection, and destruction, reflecting back at me. With my newly acquired tilaka, I soon noticed it having a positive effect on the way people perceived me. The frequency of smiles from passersby could not have been a coincidence.
Sitting at the steps of Har Ki Pauri
The seats at Har Ki Pauri were beginning to fill up fast, so I found a little space to sit down and waited for the ceremony to begin. One of my favourite pastimes is people watching and there was no where more spectacular for such an activity.
Every second my vision was pulled into a new direction, my curiosity caught by different expressions of faith and tradition. Intricate henna tattoos to shimmering saris, and burning embers to beautiful floral displays surrounded me, while the fragrance of incense infused the air.
I felt something brush up against me, and as I turned around I was greeted by a delightful, young woman with a smile beaming at me with such warmth and confidence that it made me feel I’d just bumped into an old and dear friend who I hadn’t seen for years.
Wearing a beautiful red and gold sari, she cheerfully introduced herself and began talking about the ceremony. She told me that I happened to be visiting on the last day of a 16-day festival called Pitru Paksha dedicated to honouring ancestors. The day also happened to fall on ‘no moon day’, also known as Amavasya, which is considered an auspicious day in hindu religion.
This festival explained the extraordinary turn out at Har Ki Pauri. While Ganga Aarti takes place every evening, this number of people was considered huge by any standards.
A Symphony of Sound, Fire, and Colour
Ganga Aarti commenced as day’s light began to fade and holy priests dressed in saffron robes gathered at the water’s edge, carrying large brass lamps filled with ghee and a multitude of vibrant flowers.
A warm, golden light casted a glow against the backdrop of the darkening sky and light bounced off the rippling waters of the Ganges. Everyone unified in prayer on both sides of the river, we clapped rhythmically to the hymns and clanging of musical bells.
It was like nowhere I’d been before or nothing I’d experienced before. The crowd had transformed into a sea of glistening gold bracelets and an explosion of multicoloured chiffon and cotton waves.
The atmosphere was charged with an enchanting melody of Sanskrit hymns and mantras recited by the priests. Many expressions gave the impression of a transcendental state, and as a bystander it was impossible not to get caught up in the reverie of the moment.
The Offerings to Mother Ganga
As the ceremony drew to a close, spectators were invited to bring their offerings down to Mother Ganga in thanks and to seek her blessings for prosperity and spiritual purification. The most popular offering consists of a leaf basket containing flowers and a small oil candle that is set alight and released onto the holy waters.
The whole ceremony last for only 45 minutes but the memories can last a lifetime. There’s no event on earth comparable to Ganga Aarti. The sights, sounds, smells and rituals are truly unique, and will leave you with a deep sense of wonder and an enduring connection to the sacred waters of the Ganges.
If you’re planning a trip to India, attending a Ganga Aarti, whether it be in Haridwar, Rishikesh or Varanasi, should be high on your list of things to do.
Practical Information
The Ganga Aarti takes place everyday at Har Ki Pauri ghat in Haridwar around sunset, but the exact timing can vary throughout the year. It is advisable to arrive early to secure a good spot for viewing the ceremony, as it can get very crowded, particularly on important dates.
When attending the Ganga Aarti, it’s important to be respectful and dress modestly. The atmosphere is serene and deeply spiritual, so maintaining a sense of reverence is encouraged. People of all faiths are welcome and it’s free to attend.
For more things to do in India, see more: 11 Cultural Activities to Experience in India.
