If you don’t mind getting really dirty and sweaty then I encourage you to do the hike to Cabo San Juan, a beautiful beach located in Parque Tayrona, Colombia.
I really hadn’t prepared myself for the hike and ended up flailing around like a seagull trying to avoid a tonne of mud and crossing the occasional river. That’s why I’m writing this guide, to warn you about some of the unexpected parts of the hike and what you should bring to make the trip a little more comfortable.
Whatever I might say about mud and sweat and getting wet, don’t let that put you off. The adventure of the hike was even more rewarding than time spent on the beach. I absolutely loved exploring Tayrona and my only regret is that I didn’t have more time for further hiking.
Why visit Tayrona National Park?
Everyone we spoke to said Tayrona was an absolute must. Famous for its joyous mix of jungle and white sand beaches. Whilst this is true I somehow didn’t expect it to also be so rugged too. But, in a way, that’s what I loved so much about the park. There’s endless adventure to be found.
But you don’t go to Tayrona and expect to be lazing on a beach as soon as you enter, you have to hike to reach the beaches or get there on horseback.
What to expect on the hike
Firstly, we were in Tayrona toward the end of November so my experience may vary compared to other months. There are pros and cons to going this time of the year.
The good thing is that it’s low season so there are less tourists. I hate experiencing nature whilst feeling like I’ve been spat out onto a human conveyor belt. I’ve heard during peak season it can get pretty busy so you might want to factor this in if you’re making plans. At the very least, avoid the weekends and public holidays in Colombia.
On the down side, November is rainy season – BUT – this doesn’t mean it’s going to rain. We were super lucky during our trip to Colombia, apart from our time in Medellin where it rained cats and dogs, it barely rained anywhere else. However, sometimes it rains at night which can affect the conditions of the trails. We learnt this for ourselves about an hour into the hike to Cabo San Juan when we were greeted with unavoidable mud-laden paths.
I’m pretty nifty on my feet, and managed to pivot around rocks and hold onto some trees to avoid having a free mud bath but a lot of people just ended up taking off their footwear and trudged along in their bare feet since it seemed like the most practical solution.
If you have any problems with your knees, or you’re a bit older and your fitness might not be what it used to be, you might want to travel some of the way by horseback (perhaps on the way back if you’re not staying the night). Though if you can, I encourage you to soldier on with the hike, it’s not difficult, just some of the terrain can be uneven and muddy.
Hiking enables you to be closer to the nature, and stop for it when something catches your eye. I spotted all kind of beautiful lizards and even a monkey too.
How to get to Cabo San Juan
The largest city nearby is Santa Marta. The buses leave from the main market at the corner of Calle 11 and Carrera 9. Alternatively, you can get a taxi and that’s what we decided to do because we were staying in a gorgeous eco-hotel just outside the park and they offered to arrange a taxi for us at a reasonable price.
Try and get there early, between 8 am – 9 am allows you to hike at a leisurely pace as well as allowing you a good length of time at various beaches, including Arrecife and La Piscina which you pass on the way to Cabo San Juan.
What you should pack
- 1 pair of trainers (you’ll need these for the hike)
- 1 pair of flip flops (these are not just handy for the beach but also when you need to cross a couple of streams/small rivers)
- Swimsuit
- Cover-up (big t-shirt, sarong, shorts etc. – whatever you’re comfortable in)
- Small towel
- Toilet paper (it’s never guaranteed)
- Cash (no ATMs in the park)
- Passport (needed to enter the park)
- Water
- Sunscreen
- Camera (you’ll want to document some of the things you saw!)
- Insect repellent (a must if you are sleeping over!)
- Camera
- Torch/flashlight/headlamp (if you are sleeping over, but if your phone has a camera that should suffice)
Arrival at Tayrona National Park
Before you actually get to the area where the hiking begins, a bit of faffing around at the entrance of the park is required…
- When you arrive at the park entrance, there’s a short 10-minute film to watch that explains some basic information about the park. The video is in Spanish with English subtitles.
- Then get in line to purchase your entry ticket for 44,000 COP and you’ll receive a wristband to wear. NOTE: MAKE SURE TO BRING YOUR PASSPORT. If for some reason you are not able to bring your passport, at least make sure you have a copy of your passport or some other form of ID. My friend didn’t have her’s but she did have a photo of it on her phone so they were able to collect the details they required.
- You’ll then need to dig into your pockets again for a short bus ride to the trail-head. (I think I paid 3,000 CUP which is approx 75p). Some people walk instead of taking the bus, but the bus saves you almost an hour of walking time. Also it’s not a scenic walk so it doesn’t really make sense wasting energy when you’ve got a long hike ahead away.
The hike to Cabo San Juan
From the start of the trail it’s supposed to take two hours to reach Cabo San Juan but that doesn’t factor in stopping for rests, photos, and enjoying the attractions en route. I think I ended up reaching our final destination in two and a half hours but much faster on the way back since there are less up-hill parts and I wasn’t stopping every two minutes to marvel at the landscape.
The first part of the jungle hike is gorgeous. The views of the white rocks smoothed by wind and waves, and the turquoise water lapping at the white sand beaches is amazing.
It took about 1 hour and 15 minutes to get to Arrecifes camping area, and the path up to that point was relatively mud free, consisting mostly of boardwalks and stairs over boulders through the jungle. This also means you’re more than halfway to Cabo San Juan (3.3 km of 5.9 km).
At a certain point around Arrecifes I had to cross two small rivers. There’s no getting around this and you will get wet. This is where having flip-flops and a small towel would have been handy to keep my feet clean and dry but instead I had no other choice but to squish my wet, dirty, sandy feet back into my trainers. (If you think I did this without complaining, you’re wrong).
From Arricifes, it’s a stunning 15-minute walk to La Piscina. The hiking path lingers by the beach and crosses a lush palm grove before reaching the calmest beach, La Piscina, which is Spanish for the pool.
La Piscina was my favourite beach in Tayrona National Park and with the benefit of hindsight I would have spent longer there than the beach at Cabo San Juan. It’s really peaceful with gorgeous sweeping boulders, a dreamy place from which to enjoy beach life. Just plonk yourself down on the pristine sand and enjoy the sound of the waves. The lagoon of La Piscina is also the best place in Tayrona National Park for snorkelling and swimming.
Once you leave the beach at La Piscina and head back to the trail it takes about another 30 – 40 minutes to reach Cabo San Juan. This section was the muddiest part of the hike.
People say Cabo is the most beautiful beach in Tayrona, but I’m not sure I agree. Perhaps it could be if it wasn’t as commercialised. Unlike La Piscina, there’s a large camping ground, a huge restaurant, and a plethora of sun worshippers. But no doubt it’s still beautiful, and the sense of satisfaction you feel after completing the jungle trek will make the reward of dipping your feet in the sea and staring up at the palm trees that little bit sweeter.
What did I miss?
Had I know more about what’s inside Tayrona National Park before entering, I would have continued on the inland hike from Cabo San Juan to Pueblito (‘little town’ in Spanish) where you can visit an indigenous village that’s still inhabited. Instead we walked back on the route we came (with a few detours), but had we known the park’s layout better, we would taken the path down to Pueblito and then exited the park from the smaller exit known as Calabazo.
Where to stay
Initially we wanted to stay inside the park but we’d read less than positive reviews about sleeping in a hammock and the only accommodation we were swooning over – the ecohabs – were well out of our budget. Therefore we booked a few nights at a gorgeous eco-hotel called Villa Yira which I couldn’t recommend more highly. It’s within walking distance to the park or less than a 5 minutes’ bus ride away once you reach the main road.
4 Responses
Hi Shing, thank you so much for your valuable insight on hiking through Tayrona Park. I’m a Colombian who travels every year to the area (love it). But I’ve consistently avoided the Park for the various reasons you mentioned: touri-crowds, pricey entrance fees, mud, sweat, bugs, etc. But I really miss the deep connection to nature, which is the highlight here. Thanks to your tips, I will give it a try now 😉
Save travels & all the best to you on your future journeys. Kind regs, Paola
Hello Paola! Firstly, you are so lucky to call Colombia your home. Secondly, it’s great to hear that you will now visit Tayrona National Park on your next visit to the area! Hopefully you’ll avoid the peak season so you get to experience the nature on a more personal level. Funnily enough… trying to avoid the mud and getting a little dirtier than I expected truly made the experience more memorable in a fun way 🙂
Thanks for reading and sharing your thoughts!
Hi Shing, I am planning now a tour of Colombia for Easter with my two kids, 7 and 9. Your post on the trek in Tayrona was the most informative thing I found on the Internet! Thank you so much for it! I love that you are giving the realistic time indications. HOpefully thanks to it we won’t miss the bus to Cartaghena after the day of hike 🙂
kind regards, Barbara from Belgium
Hi Barbara! So great to hear you found this post useful. I hope you and your kids have an amazing time – I think this adventure will gift you so many memories! All the best 🙂