It’s rare to find something enchanting. Often it’s imbued with a sense of mystery that captures your imagination and lingers there like a beautiful dream. This is exactly the kind of effect the Isle of Kerrera has on visitors.
Go where the locals go
Surprisingly, I’d never heard of Kerrera until my friend spoke about it a few days earlier by telling me that I should visit. She lives in Glasgow, and has travelled all over Scotland, so if she said I should visit, then it’s really worth visiting.
It’s only a 5-minute ferry ride away from Oban so I had no good reason not to, even if I didn’t feel that excited about it. I’m not sure why I felt so ambivalent since I trusted my friend’s opinion. I guess at the back of my mind I figured I had already read about the places worth seeing the most. This, of course, is foolish to believe.
But perhaps it’s an easy assumption to make with larger and more famous islands like, Mull, Islay, and Jura within striking distance of Oban. Somehow I think Kerrera gets lost in the shuffle. Adding to this, it’s so close to Oban that there’s probably a tendency to think if it’s so close, it ain’t worth it. Again, foolish. Why is that we believe all the best stuff must be far away?
Catching the ferry to Isle of Kerrera from Oban
We pulled up in the free car park next to the terminal and waited in line with three other people. It wasn’t busy which probably had something to do with the weather, rain was forecast and deep clouds were already forming.
Ferries depart every 30 minutes for the most part until the afternoon, but off-record the ferries seem to whizz back and fourth depending on whether they see people waiting. How’s that for small-town charm?
As the ferry docked, the skipper welcomed us onboard with an energy and enthusiasm that could’ve put a person half his age to shame. Fashioning a pair of yellow wellies and a long wiry, beard, he looked like the man from the Fisherman’s Friend advert which is why I half expected him to offer me a mint.
If you’re looking to experience local vibes it doesn’t get much more authentic. You realise what a small operation it is after discovering the ferry only takes 12 people at a time and no cars are allowed.
For somewhere that’s so close town, it feels incredibly remote. Kerrera is also home to a whopping 35 inhabitants, give or take a few. If you want to escape the crowds, then the Isle of Kerrera is most certainly the place for you.
Walking routes on the Isle of Kerrera
On arrival we saw a map that showed two walking routes. One was the whole 9 km circumference of the island that starts and finishes at the ferry port in the middle of the island, and the other was a western route to the tea house and Gylen Castle which is the main attraction of the island. We opted for the Western route at a distance of around 4 – 5 km.
After walking at a slow pace for about 35 minutes (our legs were still aching from climbing Ben Nevis the day before), we spotted a wreckage of a boat swept up on the beach and wandered over to have a closer look at it. It was completely abandoned and looked like it had been mysteriously left there for years.
Soon after the path led inland for views of rolling hills, a few cottages, countryside gates and no one but sheep for company. The trail was well sign-posted and occasionally we spotted quirky tea pots attached to tea branches and walls to indicate that refreshments weren’t too far away.
After making a bend in the path the lone castle sitting on top of a craggy hill that swept down into the the sea began to creep into vision.
We walked around the castle and took pictures from various angles, but unfortunately we felt the first few droplets of rain, and knew we couldn’t stay for too long without getting soaking wet. Stupidly, I didn’t pack a raincoat. If there’s anywhere you need a raincoat, it’s Scotland.
Gylen Castle was built in 1582 by Duncan MacDougall, but was captured and burnt by a Covenanter army, led by General David Leslie, in 1647. A wonderful tidbit about the castle is that J.M.W. William drew sketches of it in 1831 and which are now kept in the Tate archives.
The tea house was closing at 2.30pm so we didn’t have time to go in and shelter, instead we trudged along and made the most of the cinematic backdrop before turning around the way we came.
Despite the rain, we were happy knowing we had the place to ourselves. Simply put, if you’re in Oban for any amount of time, don’t miss this enchanting little gem.
Are you planning a trip to Scotland?
If you’re planning a trip to Scotland and want to see beyond the capital city, take a look at these blogs and guides below for inspiration.
