Islam and Christianity have shaped the landscape of Andalusia, and there’s no building that represents this meeting of faiths more than Córdoba’s Mosque-Cathedral. Known locally as Mezquita-Catedral, nowhere else in the world will you find a cathedral built slap-bang in the middle of a mosque.
Brief history of Córdoba’s Mosque-Cathedral
The mosque-cathedral began life solely as a mosque in the 8th century after Córdoba fell under Moorish rule in the late 7th century. Prior to its construction, the land is believed to have been home to a Christian church dedicated to Saint Vincent, a venerated martyr of Spain, famed for his loyalty to the Catholic faith.
The mosque held a place of great importance amongst the Islamic community of al-Andalus for three centuries. During this time Córdoba became one of the most advanced cities in the world, and the mosque was seen as the heart and central focus of the city. This period lasted until 1236, when the city of Córdoba became under Christian rule once again.
Instead of tearing down the mosque completely, most of it was thankfully kept in tact during the reconquista, but nevertheless the building was converted into a Catholic church, culminating in the insertion of cathedral nave. Muslims were forbidden to pray inside and despite campaigns from Muslims across Spain up until today, it remains only a place of worship for Catholics.
This is a highly contested decision, not just for Muslims, but for those wishing to see people of different faiths gathering and praying peacefully alongside one another.
Architecture
As soon as I entered Córdoba’s Mosque-Cathedral I was amazed by the beautiful architecture, it was like nothing I’d seen before, and certainly not on such an enormous scale. The majority of the monument is the construction of Islamic architects. Features like the 856 columns and symmetrical horseshoe arches give the illusion of infinite space, similar to the sensation of walking into a mirrored room. These features are why the mosque is considered one of the greatest examples of Islamic architecture in the world.
As I walked closer toward the middle of the monument, the cathedral nave came into view. Though as beautiful as I may have found it, I couldn’t shake off the odd feeling of seeing it planted in the middle of a mosque. Saying it was about as odd as seeing a dog talking on a mobile phone is no exaggeration.
While the architecture of the Renaissance cathedral is beautiful, the style can be seen around the world a hundred times over, compared to the mosque which is truly unique. Adding to this sentiment, Charles V visited shortly after the cathedral’s completion in 1523 and famously commented: “You have destroyed something unique to build something commonplace”. This comment might seem harsh, because many people also believe the duality is a powerful symbol of the city’s multicultural past, and why it stands out from other religious buildings around the world.
The Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba is truly unique and deserves its place on UNESCO’s World Heritage List.
→ Book a guided tour of Cordoba’s Mosque-Cathedral
Planning a trip to Córdoba?
I visited Cordoba along with Seville and Granada by train. If you’d like more information about these destinations, check out my itinerary: Getting the Train Between Granada, Cordoba & Seville in Andalucia
Tours in Córdoba: Looking for theatre tickets, queue jumps or a grand tour of the city? Take a look at what’s available to book in Córdoba.
Where to stay in Córdoba
I stayed at Balcon de Cordoba and it was the best placed I stayed during my trip to Andalusia. Located down a narrow street just a stone’s throw of the Mezquita-Catedral, this boutique hotel has lots of character. My room had a beautiful Juliet balcony overlooking the old city and views of the hotel’s lovely courtyard below. It’s a boutique hotel, and as such, a little pricier than the other hotels I stay in, but the attention to detail in every aspect makes a stay here beyond memorable. If you book in advance you can have dinner serviced from the rooftop terrace which I definitely recommend.
