Łódź often gets overlooked by tourists, but this shouldn’t be the case.
While it doesn’t jump out in the way that Krakow does for its beautiful architecture, Gdansk for its seaside appeal, or Warsaw for its status as a capital city, it would be a mistake not to include Łódź in any trip to Poland.
It’s a city that has climbed out from a difficult history, and now shines like a diamond in the rough, with plenty of things to see and do due to keep you entertained.
We can all think of cities that we love and long to return to time and time again, and for me, Łódź is definitely one of them. I’ve been a few times and each visit I discover something new and interesting. There’s something about this city that pulls you in and makes you want to peel back its many layers.
If your interests lie in history, film, or the arts, then you’ll certainly find Poland’s 3rd largest city rewarding. Here’s my list of the best things to do in Łódź:
1. Visit MS2 Modern Art Museum
Admittedly I wasn’t expecting to find much in this art museum but the collection knocked my socks off. It’s spread across several floors and filled with both Polish and international artists of the highest level.
The interesting curation and avant-garde pieces, including installations, film, sculptures, and furniture, easily competes on the same level as many of the top art museums across Europe.
The temporary exhibition on the ground floor is often really minimal and designed in an interesting way with space and light taken into consideration.
Located inside the renovated Manufaktura complex, this is certainly one of the best contemporary art collections in Poland.
2. Take in the sights of Piotrkowska Street
Almost five kilometres long, Piotrkowska Street is one of the longest pedestrian streets in the world. There’s no better location to begin your visit of the city. Along this Main Street you’ll find top restaurants, boutique shops, nightspots, and other attractions.
Despite being formerly overlooked, a striking thing to recognise on Piotrkowska Street are the many Art Nouveau buildings, signalling the once very prosperous era of the city. Though many of the buildings fell into decline, in more recent years these historical properties have been restored to their turn-of-the-century splendour.
About mid-way along at no. 72 stands the Grand Hotel, where figures as varied as Tito, Himmler and Roman Polanski have stayed, as well as scenes from David Lynch’s 2007 film Inland Empire. I’ve been to the city a few times and I’ve alway stayed this hotel in homage to my love for the American film director.
At no. 78 you’ll be at the childhood home of the Polish-American classical pianist Arthur Rubinstein and you’ll find a monument of him playing the grand piano. Another fun ode to famous Poles is a Walk of Fame, like you’ll find in Hollywood.
3. Admire the colours of Saint Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
If you like pretty things, then you’ll love the beautifully bright and colourful appearance of Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.
It’s a stunning 19th century Catholic Orthodox building originating from when the city was part of the Russian Empire.
Although I haven’t been inside myself, it’s worth a visit just to marvel at the ornate Neo-Byzantine style architecture. It’s really not like anything else you’ll see in Łódź so make sure you stroll by to see it.
4. Explore Manufaktura
Opened in 2006, the Manufaktura, a renovated textile factory turned entertainment/ shopping/ cultural complex, really gave birth to Łódź’s renaissance.
It’s a cultural and social hub where locals and tourists come together to experience a wide range of activities including dining, film, arts, and other pleasure-seeking pursuits.
It also includes the largest public square in Łódź, which makes it a popular place for relaxing, catching up with friends and simply watching the world go by.
The project is an incredible example of how architecture and using old resources really has the ability to transform a city, whilst at the same time reflecting on its history to promote its future.
5. Experience the Museum of Cinematography
Opened in 1986 inside Karol Scheibler’s 19th-century palace, the Cinematography Museum delves into the industry that Poland has contributed to significantly.
The museum itself offers a well-presented history of Polish cinema and brings into a focus the multitude of Polish film directors and stars who studied in the city before going on to bigger projects, such a Krzysztof Kieślowski, Roman Polanski and Andrzej Wajda.
This is the only museum of its kind in Poland and presents a rewarding experience for fans of Polish cinema and avid lovers of cinema more broadly.
The collection features over 50,000 items including over 12,000 film posters, art exhibits and projectors and camera equipment of every kind. Standout features of the museum include the Fotoplastikon – a giant drum-like contraption popular in the early 20th century for showing 3D films, and the excellent exhibit devoted to animated photography featuring plenty of vintage stop-motion characters and accompanying clips.
6. Look for Street Art
You don’t even need to look for street art in Łódź, there’s so much of it you might run the risk of think of thinking you were in the area of Kreuzberg in Berlin or the side-streets of Kiev.
When I first came to the city, I couldn’t believe how many wall murals there are, and since then they’ve only grown. You’ll find work by international artists, ROA, Etam Crew, Morik and many more.
Honestly, you’ll be amazed. See more here.
7. Visit the Jewish Cemetery
First built to accommodate deaths from a Cholera epidemic in 1892, the largest Jewish cemetery in Europe holds 180,000 graves and 65,000 tombs with many laid to rest inside elaborate tombs that are works of art themselves (including the biggest Jewish mausoleum which belongs to Israel Poznański).
However, a more sobering experience is found south of the cemetery where approximately 45,000 Jews who died in the ghetto were buried in a build-for-purpose area known as the ‘Ghetto Field’ between 1940 -1944. A death-rate in such a small space of time, and in only one city that is almost too vast to conceive.
For more information about the Jewish Cemetery in Łódź read more here.
8. Reflect at the Park of Survivors
After visiting the Jewish Cemetery, make your way to the Park of Survivors, known in Polish as Park Ocalałych. While the Cemetery is a sobering experience, the Park of Survivors is up-lifting experience, honouring those who survived the Łódź Ghetto.
Among the tributes is a mound with a bench commemorating WWII resistance-movement soldier, Jan Karski, who fearlessly smuggled information out of Polish to Polish Government in Exile.
This park is made evermore special after learning that every single tree was planted by a survivor of the war.
9. Take in the shimmer and shine of Pasaz Rozy
Translating to Rose’s Passage, this courtyard just off Piotrkowska Street is one of the quirkiest things you’ll find in the city. This attraction quite literally and figuratively is, a gem. It reminded me instantly of Philadelphia’s Magic Garden by Isaiah Zagar which I’d seen years before.
With whole buildings completely covered in a mosaic of cut glass, it can dazzle even on a rainy day.
10. Visit Radegast Old Train Station
I’ve said Łódź wears its history on its sleeve and this small, old train station turned museum is another example.
It’s one thing going to a purpose-built museum that details the horrors of the war, but it’s an entirely different experience standing at the site where thousands and thousands of Jewish Poles bordered on trains before being taken to their concentration camps.
Outside is also one of the original wooden train carriages.
11. Head to the hipster spots at Off Piotrkowska
This derelict factory area that no-one would go near less than a decade ago, has been re-imagined as a hipster spot for beer lovers and foodie seekers.
This area attracts a diverse crowd from international students to young professionals flocking to enjoy local-brew beers and other tempting libations.
Spoldzielnia is a great place to hang around in the evening, or for lunch with a choice between alfresco in the summer and a cosy and contemporary spot in cooler months.
You’ll also find a selection of alternative business including studios, independent design companies and small publishing houses.
12. Head inside Łódź History Museum
The History of Łódź Museum is set inside a beautiful former palace. Highlights include a lithograph and painting by Marc Chagall and a room dedicated to the pianist Arthur Rubenstein who was born on Piotrkowska Street.
Rubenstein is considered one of the greatest pianists of the 20th century, especially noted for his interpretation of Chopin. In homage to the man is a statue of him playing a piano on the street he was born.
13. Take a day trip to Warsaw
Less than 2-hours away by train, why not set off in the morning to Poland’s capital city and catch the train back in the early evening? It’s definitely doable – I did it! And I was surprised by how much I managed to cram into one day.
Check train times and book tickets to Warsaw in advance via Trainline.com.
Where to stay in Łódź
There are plenty of places to stay in Łódź but each time I stay at Hotel Grand purely because scenes from Lynch’s Inland Empire were shot inside. It’s located on Piotrkowska street so you can’t beat it for location.
It’s impressive to think it opened its doors to the public in 1888 and has been running ever since. It’s also recently undergone a large-scale renovation so I imagine it’s pretty swanky now.
Are you planning a trip to Łódź?
5 Responses
Interesting. Have been considering Gdańsk for a while, but Łódź had passed me by. You’ve definitely peaked my interest! I love the way cities are regenerating their beaten up areas. I saw the same in Bordeaux, really transforms a place
Hi Ben! If you find interest in seeing how a city has regenerated after surviving a difficult history, and don’t care if everything doesn’t look like a postcard, then you’ll appreciate Łódź. There’s lots to see and do and its super affordable. I’m not sure if you’re been to Warsaw, but the two cities go well together, and on another trip I combined Berlin with Poznan and Łódź which I also recommend. I’ve never been to Bordeaux so thanks for the heads up!
‘Nice one Shing!
I always travel to Poland, but I’ve been wanting to go to Łódź for ages! All my Polish friends who know me reckon that with history, film and arts, (stuff that I already love), I’ll have a very fine time indeed!
Now I actually live in Berlin, so I just have to map out some time…!
Lodz is nice but I have to admit I like Warsaw more. I recommend checking out some night clubs near Metro Swietokrzyska. I went to New Orlean Club and it was a great food, music and pole dancing shows. 🙂
Lodz is kinda boring. Go to Warsaw to experience the craziest time on your life! If you want to go to night clubs you have to visit New Orelans on Zgoda street.