I love planning day trips outside of London, particularly when summer is around the corner. I’d been dreaming of going to the coast and decided upon Rye in Sussex.
It seemed to have everything I was looking for: cobbled streets – tick, historical buildings – tick, close to the beach – tick. I wanted nothing more than to feel fresh air against my skin and hear the soothing sound of the sea.
The train to Rye from London
Visiting Rye by train from London is super simple. From London St Pancras it takes 1 hour 10 minutes, and from Stratford only 1 hour. I booked a £40-return ticket online, and hopped on the train with a few sandwiches in tow.
→ Book your train tickets in advance via Trainline
Brief History of Rye
Its name ‘Rye’ has nothing to do with bread which I had first assumed. Rather, it comes from a mangling of Saxon words for an island.
Today, as the town perches on a hilltop, it’s hard to see anything resembling an island, but centuries ago the sea encroached the foot of the town, and Rye flourished as a busy trading port.
In the medieval times, Rye was affiliated with the Cinque Port. Cinque Ports was a network of harbour towns created by Edward the Confessor to foster coastal defences.
Gaining Cinque Ports affiliation was a mark of Rye’s importance. It was involved in fishing, shipbuilding and trade in fish, timber, wool, wine and luxury goods. However, that would all change. In 1377 the French raided the town and burned Rye to the ground, destroying most of its timber buildings. St Mary’s church is the only pre-1200 building to survive in Rye.
In the aftermath of the attack, a huge stone defence with thick walls and heavily defended gates was immediately built around town. The harbour, always subject to silting, could not be kept clear, and by the 16th century Rye’s once busy port disappeared along with the shore receded further and further from the foot of the hill.
Exploring Rye
After being carefully rebuilt, it’s like time has stood still in Rye ever since. It does nicely without huge apartment buildings and skyscrapers and instead, a wonderful selection of Tudor and Georgian buildings remain. With names like Watchbell Lane, Trader’s Passage, Mermaid Street and Wish street, you can’t fail to be enchanted by the olde-worlde charm of this coastal town.
1. Mermaid Street
Mermaid Street sounds like a place straight out of a Walt Disney film, and it looks like a fairy tale too. People flock here to photograph the picture-perfect setting. A cobbled, long lane lined with a mix of medieval timber-framed buildings and elegant Georgian houses. Giving its name to the street is one of the oldest buildings in Rye, the Mermaid Inn. This fascinating building has a long and turbulent history, laced with sieges, ghosts, fugitives, and secret passages.
2. St Mary's Church
St Mary’s is an impressive church that sits on the crest of Rye Hill and dates back to the 12th century. It features stained glass windows by Arts and Crafts pioneer William Morris.
Usually you can climb to the top of the bell tower but at the moment it’s closed due to Covid. It’s supposedly great fun and promises outstanding views across the town and countryside so I was disappointed. Hopefully it’ll be open when you have the chance to visit.
3. Ypres Tower
The Ypres Tower was built in the 13th century and once served as a prison. It is one of the very few buildings to survive the devastating French raid of 1377. Nowadays it is part of Rye Castle Museum and brings to life the long and colourful history of Rye. Just in front of Ypres Tower are the Gun Gardens, site of the Tudor gun emplacements that were a major part of Rye’s defences.
4. Countryside walk from Rye to Camber Sands
After exploring Rye, it was time to hit the beach. To get to Camber Sands I followed the 3-mile countryside walk along National Cycle Network Route 2. The route is simple and well sign-posted. If you’re still unsure, there’s always GoogleMaps for extra back up.
I soon discovered that I was sharing my path with little lambs and sheep for the first mile of the walk. Nothing says the dawn of Spring quite like the vision of these curly-haired newborns running precariously towards their mother’s side.
5. Relax at Camber Sands Beach
Camber Sands is special because it feels quite hidden. You can’t actually see it from the car park entrance. You need to trudge up a big slope of sand and grass before you’re rewarded with glorious sea views. Unlike most beaches along the Sussex and Kent coast which are lined with pebbles and shingle, Camber Sands is covered in fine, golden sand.
But it’s the undulating dunes that make Camber Sands special and also one of the most striking beaches in England. It’s like walking on waves of sand. It looks more wild, more cinematic. In fact, it has been featured in a number of TV appearances and films.
In true British style, I ordered fish and chip from the cafeteria located at the entrance and scoffed them while perched on the dunes overlooking the beautiful sea. I really couldn’t complain about anything. I felt happy.
Where to stay in Rye
Since this trip, I have been to returning to Rye once or twice at year. It’s own of my favourite places in the UK to escape the London city life.
I’ve stayed at the lovely Whitehouse Rye which is located in the heart of the town on the main High Street. The hotel is situated inside a stunning Grade II listed Georgian building and the interior design is tastefully decorated with original and modern features to offer a stylish, light and airy atmosphere. The breakfast is superb and if that’s not enough, there is a bakery which offers scrumptious treats to accompany any long or short coast walk.
If you’re looking for a long walk from Rye, I recommend the coastal walk to Hastings.
2 Responses
Rye’s a great choice for the coast, and you’re right to point out Camber Sands is indeed sandy not pebble or shingle. There’s also some cliffs nearby you probably saw, between Hastings and Fairlight which aren’t as well-known as the Cliffs of Dover or the Seven Sisters to east and west but is still pretty good coastal terrain if you want to continue walking from Rye…more day-trip potential perhaps?
Hi Thomas! Camber Sands is quite a gem of the British coast, eh? Oooh I don’t think I did see the cliffs that you are referring to… I want to go to Hastings (and Fairlight now that you mention it) so I will be sure to check out those cliffs. Thank you!