As part of a cooking class I took in Pondicherry, a trip to the local market was included to buy all the ingredients we needed. Afterwards I learnt how to make several Indian dishes which I’m going to try and recreate in my own kitchen now that I’m back home (wish me luck).
Goubert Market isn’t just a place you go for food, you can buy everything here – woven baskets, saris, leather goods, silk, jewellery, flowers and just about everything and anything – but the food is the main reason people flock to it and for good reason. The produce is fresh, varied and reasonably priced. It is also where many local restaurants get their daily supplies so if you really want to see it in full swing arrive early.
Named after Édouard Goubert, the first Chief Minister of Pondicherry, the market branches off from M.G. Road and into a myriad of narrow alleyways each offering a host of items for sale.
What we bought in Goubert Market
For our main dish we were cooking a Kerelan fish curry so our teacher took us to the fish section. I think it’s the most incredible part of the market, with the pungent smell and cacophony of noise hitting you immediately. What struck me as unusual was that all the sellers were female. About a hundred odd local women, shouting, chopping and mingling among each other and trying to cajole you to choose from an assortment of fish and seafood. It would appear that the men do the fishing and the women do the selling.
We opted for a Seer fish which is a white fish often dubbed the ‘King mackerel’. They are a delicacy in several regions of South India and Sri Lanka. In Tamil Nadu, the region Pondicherry belongs to, the fish is called ‘Vanjaram’ and is usually the costliest variety available.
It was incredible to watch the women in this environment. Our chosen seller slapped down the large fish on a chopping board, raised up a large, sharp knife and began slicing it into several thick cuts before tossing them into an old fashioned weighing scale.
Another interesting stall we visited belonged to a friendly man who sold nothing but banana leaves. These are important, because in India, particular in South India, food is often served on banana leaves instead of plates. I’m a big of this because it’s one of the most eco-friendly ways of eating food. It degrades quickly and in a country with an over-sized population it curbs people using plastic utensils which does not help the environment.
In contrast to the stifling smell of the fish market is the section reserved for flowers, where fragrant strains waft across nearby spaces and women are busy making beautiful Jasmine flower garlands. Garlands and the act of garlanding are deeply rooted in Indian culture. They can take the form of a gajra, when females use it as a floral decoration for their hair, or as religious symbols to honour gods or even as a ayurvedic practice believed to reduce nervousness and also keeps the brain in calmness.
You will find other interesting stalls in the midst of fervent haggling and a rainbow of colours and noise. I suggest going early in the day when the place buzzes with activity though it’s probably not for the faint of heart – it might be packed to the gills with people and activity. Be careful to give way to the ‘runners’ with goods stacked high on their heads. It’s easy to lose one’s way, but if you’re interested in seeing an old fashioned market in operation this is the place to head. And, for all those who enjoy photography, photo opportunities are abound.
Other posts you might be interested in:
Authentic Indian Food: Taking a Cooking Class in Pondicherry
12 Best Things to do in Pondicherry
Vegetarian Dishes to Try in India (Or Cook at Home!)
One Response
Yeah you rightly said that all the food items and other home needs also available .but the cleanliness of the entire area is very bad conditions and the basic amenities are provided as much as old ( French ruling periods)