If you have watched the film or read the book, Life of Pi, you will recognise Pondicherry as the protagonist’s birthplace.
On my first day in India, whilst wandering around Mamallapuram, I met a Chinese woman who said she was going to Pondicherry (or known affectionately as Pondi) because she loved the book written by Yann Martel. This made me smile. I love it when someone has been impacted by something like a book or film, that it inspires them to seek out the location where it was set.
 I’ve no doubt she isn’t the first and last person to say this about Pondicherry. But what else should you know about Pondicherry other than its literary connection to the Life of Pi?
A brief history of Pondicherry
Pondicherry is a pituresque coastal city located in Tamil Nadu, southeastern India. The history of Pondicherry is rich and varied, shaped by multiple influences over the centuries.Â
In the 17th century, the French East India Company established a trading post in Pondicherry to gain control over lucrative trades. This marked the beginning of French colonial rule in the region, and shaped the appearance and culture of modern-day Pondicherry.
The British briefly occupied Pondicherry in the mid-18th century, but it was later returned to French control through the Treaty of Paris in 1763.
Pondicherry continued to flourish as a French colonial town until India gained independence in 1947. Since then, Pondicherry has retained its unique blend of French and Indian culture.
Its charming streets, colonial architecture, diverse cultural heritage mixed with its laid-back atmosphere makes Pondicherry a popular place to visit for both Indians and foreigners looking for a relaxing escape.
In this mini-guide I will show you the highlights of the city and where to stay to ensure you get the most from your trip.
1. Sightseeing stroll along the seaside promenade
Apart from being very pretty with the beach on one side, and French colonial architecture on the other; a walk along the promenade is home to some interesting structures. You will find a statue of India’s first prime minister Jawaharlal Nehru, a particular striking statue of Gandhi, an old lighthouse and the French War Memorial.
2. Watch the waves at Rock Beach
Rock beach, which can be accessed from the promenade, is regarded as one of the most attractive sight-seeing places in Pondicherry.
I recommend going in the early morning for sunrise or the early evening when the heat of the day has subsided and where you can watch the sunset. There are lots of nearby restaurants so you can spend the rest of your evening enjoying fabulous food along with a scenic view.
3. Immaculate Conception Cathedral
The Immaculate Conception Cathedral is a magnificent building with beautifully constructed interior and exterior designs which alone make it worth visiting.
The cathedral has a very tumultuous history.  It was erected the 1692 with the financial help of Louis XIV, king of France but was demolished by the Dutch in the following year. Wasting little time, it was quickly rebuilt in 1699, but that one did not last very long either; after it was rebuilt for the third time 1736 it was brought to the ground by the British in 1761 during the Seven Years’ War. However, the version you see today has thankfully been standing since 1791.
4. Sri Aurobindo Ashram
This ashram is a prime destination in Pondicherry for those who seek spiritual peace based on the teachings of Sri Aurobindo and Mira Alfassa also known as Mother.Â
During a visit you can mediate and enjoy the power of silence. There is a library and a store inside selling books, photographs and post cards. Similar to most ashrams, it is well decorated with colourful flowers that provide a beautiful fragrance along with incense.
5. Experience tranquility at Auroville
Perhaps the most famous attraction of this area is Auroville. Only 12 km from Pondicherry, it is a professed ‘utopia’ hosting people from over 55 countries, and was formed in 1968 by Mira Alfassa with an aim of attaining harmony and human unity through the teachings of Sri Aurobindo. There are around 3000 permanent residents living in Auroville, and almost 1 million visitors per year.
There are different segments of Auroville which span across 20 square kilometres. It has a very striking Mandir for meditation (pictured above), a garden, huge lake, and an amphitheater where most of the cultural and devotional programmes take place. There are several fascinating aspects about Auroville, particularly that it aims to be self-sustaining with no government, no currency and no religion. However, from my visit, I felt the goal of operating a cashless economy would be hard to actualise. Nevertheless it offers a peaceful and interesting experience such warrants at least one overnight stay, though longer if its ethos aligned with your interests.
6. Experience the flavours of Goubert Market
Anytime I visit a new place, I love going to the local market because I think it’s the best way to get a snapshot of local life when you don’t have too much time on your hands.
Goubert Market is the perfect place to get a sense of India’s fast pace and an opportunity to find out more about local produce. Don’t miss the fish section, here you’ll find a cast of all-female sellers trying to cajole you to choose from an assortment of fish whilst the men are out doing the fishing.
7. See the peachy facade of Our Lady of Angels
Welcome to one of the oldest churches in Pondicherry, Our Lady of Angels. The architecture found in this church is Greco-Roman which might be surprising in India, but less so as you discover Pondicherry is an eclectic mix of east-meets-west.
Inside the church you can find various beautiful paintings and sculptures, including one of Joan of Arc in the surrounding garden. Facing the sea, it is a centre of attraction for tourists and a peaceful place to pray and meditate.
8. Explore Pondicherry's French Quarter
Our Lady of Angels is located in the French Quarter, an area you’ll want to explore further. It takes about a couple of hours to leisurely explore the French Quarter, looking out for the best preserved buildings and the prettiest lanes.
There are a few buildings and place worth stopping by in the French Quarter. Start at Hotel de l’Orient, an 18th century mansion that became the French Quarter’s first renovated boutique hotel. Before this and other properties started to refocus on the tourism potential of its heritage, Pondi was a rather peaceful and sleepy coastal town. But the renewed interest from locals converted some of these crumbling French colonial mansions into hotels, cafes and restaurants.
9. Admire the colourful facade of Arulmigu Manakula Vinayagar Temple
The brightly painted gopuram of this temple attracts instant attention, but there’s more to Arulmigu Manakula Vinayagar Temple than its vibrant exterior and stunning architecture.
Built more than 350 years ago, this ancient temple is dedicated to Lord Ganesha and draws devotees from all over Pondicherry and beyond. Among the main attractions of the temple is a beautifully engraved golden chariot made from teakwood and 7.5 kg gold. The temple complex also houses a shrine devoted to Lord Murugan, who is the younger brother of Lord Ganesha.
10. Treat yourself in the shops!
Usually I’d never suggest shopping in one my travel guides, but there are so many beautiful things to buy for yourself or someone back home. What’s more, objects, clothes, accessories are so much cheaper in India that most places, especially Europe! It would be rude not to 😉
Being a tourist destination, there are plenty of shops from where you can buy local handicrafts. Some of the best things you can shop for are spices, aromatic candles, essential oils and natural incense sticks. Apart from these, if you are ready to loosen your pockets a bit more, you can buy hand-made wooden carved objects, jewellery, and clothes. I bought a few pieces of clothing, including a cashmere scarf because it worked out a lot cheaper to buy in India.
11. Creative immersion at Sita Cultural Center
Another thing that you can try out is a visit to Sita Cultural Center. If you are a lover of all things arts, this place is for you. Here you can learn and do plenty of creative things. Things like learning traditional Kolam art, a mehndi crash course, a quick yoga session are on offer. You can also indulge yourself in the spa and Ayurvedic massage that concentrates on problem areas and helps in easing pain.Â
I couldn’t recommend visiting Sita Cultural Center enough. If Elsa and I hadn’t found this place and signed up to a variety of classes including, cooking classes, an earring making workshop and a yoga session, we would not have had half the fun we had in Pondicherry.
12. Enjoy delicious vegetarian food at Surguru
There are lots of great restaurants in Pondicherry but Surguru is an institution and I found myself returning several times.
Each time the service was friendly and attentive and fast, and the food was delicious. The lunch tali which is shown in the above photo only cost approximately £2 so its great value too.
I’d also recommend the Chana Batura and Paneer Butter Masala. They ask how spicy you want it so you can be rest assured your preferences will be catered for.
Where to stay in Pondicherry
There are lots of options for accommodation in Pondicherry to cater for all budgets and tastes.
If it’s your first time in Pondicherry, I recommend staying in the White Town (the name is a bit questionable given its colonial past, I know). However, it’s a quiet part of town despite being on the doorstep to the main attractions. It offers a range of heritage accommodation options, where French flair blends with Tamil architectural style.Â
For comfort, character, and a touch of luxury, I recommend stay at Grand Hotel D’Europe  which comes complete with its own swimming pool.Â
If you’re looking for the best hotel in town, and price isn’t really an issue, then Palais De Mahe is the best for you. This is heritage hotel also has a swimming pool but outshines with rest with its bright yellow facade and beautiful Tamil furniture.Â
However, if you’re travelling on a budget, Golden Sun Inn is located nearby Rock Beach in the White Town. It’s hard to beat the price, and it’s good value considering the location, cleanliness and friendly staff.Â
