The phrase “hidden gem” often gets bandied around to describe places that are no longer so hidden, but it certainly rings true for Slovenia. This tiny country sandwiched between Croatia, Italy, Hungary and Switzerland, has so much to offer, especially for nature and hiking lovers.
To say that I’m obsessed with this underrated European country, would be an understatement. As small as it may be, it is home to an illuminating array of big attractions, and there is none bigger than Mount Triglav, Slovenia’s highest peak.
A Guide to Climbing Mount Triglav
Nestled in the centre of the Julian Alps, at 2863 metres (9393 ft) elevation, Triglav is very much a national symbol. After all, it’s emblazoned on the nation’s flag, and in its honour I decided that I would embark upon reaching its summit.
It takes the average person two days to climb (up and down), and while most of this hike is actually fairly easy, the final 1:30 hrs to the summit is a challenging exposed climbing route by via ferrata. That means that the trail is secured with steel cables and pegs to help you ascend to the peak.
Having high alpine hiking and some via ferrata experience is essential for safely summiting Triglav independently. If you’ve never hiked a via ferrata route, but are keen on climbing Triglav, it’s important to hire a certified hiking guide.
Booking the guided tour to Mount Triglav
After doing some research on the internet, comparing prices and what not, I decided to book a tour with Feel Green Travel who arranged for a guide to pick me and my boyfriend up from our hotel in Bled at the ungodly hour of 5:30 am.
They explained to us that the weather was supposed to be better on the first day, so we should start early to reach the summit before retiring to the mountain hut to sleep. Some people do the peak on the second morning, but I was more than happy to get the hardest part over on the first day if it was possible.
Pick-up from Lake Bled
Spending a few nights in Bled before the trip was a great decision. It’s a truly fairytale landscape with shining castles and lakes and mountains, perfect for relaxing, which is exactly what I needed to get me in the right frame of mind before testing my mental and physical willpower.
There’s also quite a lot of stuff to do in Bled, including boat rowing, swimming and some light hiking to get you in the mood for more physical activities. I recommend spending at least two nights in the area beforehand is time permits.
→ Search for hotels in Lake Bled
If you have time, and want to be further away from the crowds with more hiking opportunities. I also recommend staying nearby Lake Bohinj.
→ Search for hotels in Lake Bohinji
Morning of the hike: Pick-up from Bled
Our guide, who introduced himself as Mitja Sorns, picked us up from our rental apartment at the arranged time: not a minute early or a minute late. I felt sorry for my boyfriend because I had nagged him relentlessly to join me on this hike, knowing that he’s not a fan of heights.
Worse still, he reserves a deep loathing for early mornings, so when he found out that the hike was starting at 5:30 am, he contemplated ditching me for next flight back home. I wouldn’t have blamed him if he had!
It was still dark, and we were the first ones to be picked up in Mitja’s mini van. In total, there were only five of us in the group, which I thought was a perfect number for something like this that required care and assistance. Funnily enough, I discovered that the rest of the people in our group were also from London – a solo female traveller and another couple.
Start of the hike: Krma Valley
Our starting point – the bottom of the Krma Valley – was one of several that led into the heart of the national park. When we arrived and parked up the van, a curious little fox came to greet us. I felt like this was a good omen.
The path started off nice and gentle as we eased our way upwards.One of the first things that struck me was the scent of fresh pine cones, if that scent could be bottled, I’d sure pay a pretty penny for it.It was a late August morning and the air was still cool and crisp – the perfect climate for hiking. The forecast had said that the weather was supposed to be rainy, but we were in luck. It had been raining consecutively for several days prior, but finally it had stopped. Someone upstairs had answered my prayers.
While still in thick forest, the walls of the valley rose impossibly high on either side of us. Once we cleared the densest parts of the forest, it was possible to look back down the valley and see daylight reach more and more of the valley floor.
One thing I didn’t expect, was sharing the trail with a heard of cows and bulls. They had bells attached around their necks, and with every movement the bells chimed, and a melodic sound reverberated down the valley.
It was an unforgivably picturesque and wholesome alpine scene. If someone wanted to shoot a commercial for organic butter and fresh cream, this would be the place.
Even if we had stopped this far into the national park, I think I would have been happy with the scenery.
I could not take my eyes off the beautiful surroundings. It contained everything I love about climbing mountains – endless peak views and woodland forest bursting with shades of green, a satisfying burn in the thigh and the occasional cool breeze to keep me feeling invigorated.
The path becomes steeper
Every so often, I would spot a towering peak and ask my guide – “Is that Triglav?”, but each time it was hiding behind a veil of clouds. I think my psyche almost broke after I pointed to the largest peak I could see and he replied, “Oh that’s nothing. When you reach it, you’ll realise that it’s tiny”. And of course, he was right. When I did eventually get to the top of it, a span of new peaks that had previously been submerged in clouds began to appear with intimidating presence.
After hiking for a couple of hours through the valley, we started going up more steep parts and I needed to take off most of my layers. We took a few short breaks, and topped up our fuel with a selection of nuts and dried fruit.
Along the way there were also several water basins to refill my water bottle. I was particularly grateful for this as I’d decided not to carry several bottles in the hope I’d find a water supply en route. (That was a bit risky of me, I know!)
Lunch & Changing into Climbing Gear
After a few more hours of steady hiking we got to Kredarica hut where we’d be staying the night. We had lunch, dropped off our overnight bags and changed into the climbing gear.
The grub was simple, but for somewhere located so high up in the mountains, it was surprisingly delicious.I opted for a vegetable and barley stew, and instantly, I felt ready to take on the summit. The people here understand something important: good, hearty food can transform the most tired of minds.
Via Ferrata to the summit of Mount Triglav
Once we were strapped into our gear which included a helmet and a harness, our guide linked us together by a rope.
Despite knowing I was in good hands, being led by a guide who was beyond qualified and had climbed the mountain hundreds of times, I found it difficult to shake off the idea that if one of us fell, we’d all go tumbling down to an early grave together.
I noticed that a lot of experienced hikers didn’t use a harness or rope, they merely grabbed onto the iron rods for balance and this meant they could also go much faster. One thing is for sure, wearing a helmet is a must, several times I heard and saw falling rocks so protecting your head is mandatory.
I’ve never thought of myself as scared of heights, but the via ferrata definitely had me wondering what the hell I had myself signed up for. At some sections, I had to climb past plaques which were there to commiserate the people who had fallen to their deaths while climbing the mountain. Funnily enough, I can’t say it filled me with confidence as you can imagine.
There were times that I glanced over to my boyfriend, and genuinely felt worried for his safety – all the blood looked like it had been drained from his entire face. At any minute, he looked like he was going to faint. I felt so guilty for signing him up to this – he couldn’t exactly go back now.
Eventually, after scrambling on feet, hands and even our bottoms, we finally made it. The view was, as I expected no less, shrouded by clouds. Did I care? Absolutely not. I was relieved and elated to be standing at the highest point of Slovenia in one piece. Apparently, on a clear and sunny day, you can see four countries at the same time, but nature would not entertain it today. I guess, just maybe, I’ll have to climb Triglav all over again? Though I have no plans to do it anytime soon I’m hasten to add.
As I stood on the summit, it seemed insane to me, how my sense of personal achievement could momentarily eclipse the tiredness I had felt for the past few hours. I suppose that’s what makes climbing mountains so addictive. The rush of endorphins you get when you reach the top is next to nothing else.
We stayed on the summit for about 20 minutes, taking photos and simply basking in the moment, or perhaps most accurately; delaying the gruelling slog back down.
Overnight stay at Kredarica Hut
We climbed down fairly quickly and went to the hut where we changed into warm clothing and went out to watch the sunset. By now the temperature had dropped to freezing, but watching the sky turn brilliant shades of pink and orange was worth losing the sensation in my fingers and toes.
The hut was basic, there are no showers, but the only thing I cared about was food and sleep which we made sure not to skimp on. When the exhaustion finally kicked in after dinner, I was out like a light.
Descent of Triglav the following morning
In the morning, we retraced our steps back down the mountain and into the valley.
One thing I regretted was not bringing any hiking poles, everyone else in our group, including my boyfriend wisely brought them. Yesterday, before the hike begin, Mitja offered me a pair but I turned it down. Well, that was stupid!
I figured I wanted to keep hands to be free and hiking poles would just get in the way. On the way back down, I regret this decision. It would have taken the pressure off my knees, instead I had to jog most of the way down. Not advisable because it makes you more prone to tripping up and falling but it took the pressure off my joints, and as a result I descended Mount Triglav much quicker than ascending.
All in all, the hike was a complete success in my books.
Would I recommend climbing Mount Triglav?
You bet your boots I do! You won’t regret it, especially when you’re in the hands of a skilled guide. Unless you’re scared of heights, then I suggest staying away.
Even after several months, every time I think back to my trip I can feel the warm glow you get when you’ve accomplished something. During the cold and bleak, British winter, that’s one heck of a powerful elixir.
Further reading: 16 Magical Things to do in Ljubljana
Packing list
It is important you pack the necessary equipment to make the climb as easy and comfortable as possible. Here’s my recommended kit-list:
Clothing
- Thick socks and a pair spare incase they get wet (you can’t go wrong with brands like Stance and Smart Wool)
- Hiking boots
- Base layers
- Mid-layer top (invest in one that’s light-weight and easily packable)
- Comfortable trousers (choose ones made some fast-drying material that perform against rain and sweat).
- Lightweight insulated jacket – made from down feathers or similar.
- Water proof jacket
- Lightwear gloves
- Wool/synthetic hat
- Sunhat
Gear
- Water bottle
- Trekking poles (if you are prone to sore knees)
- Backpack (recommend approx 25 – 30 litres. Try to make your pack as light as possible)
- Headlamp
- Sun Glasses (optional)
Additional
- Power adaptor
- Camera
- Compass
- Sunscreen
- Snacks and drinks
- Plasters
If you’re pining for the mountains, here are a few more hiking recommendations and routes:
Are you planning a trip to Slovenia and Mount Triglav?
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